Prepackaged 

Classic! Technical finger locks and subtle footwork get you through the bottom section with bomber small wires for pro. A short, enjoyable section of hand jams (#0.75-#1 Camalot) finishes the main portion of the climb. Some easy wandering gets you to the top. My favorite on this wall.

I seem to remember the start as being pretty tough. Also, using holds on the face to the left of the crack (Just above where the climber is) simplifies the crux immensely, or is that cheating?

This route is well protected and incredibly fun.

I totally agree with Andy. Great finger crack to hand crack. If you lead 10a and you are at the Hemmingway buttress, this climb is a must do.

Good route to do even if not comfortable at 10's - safe and relatively easy.

Very fun route, protects well, start is a little funky/balancy until you can get into the fingercrack. Climbed this once before and thought the fingerlocks were too small for my digits...but I must have been blind because I found perfectly good ones the last time I was on it.

Completely hand/finger size dependent. Ladies fingers makes the route go closer to 5.9. If you've got a large 3.0/3.5" cam you can plug that dog in down low while standing on the block before starting into the finger crack. It's a bomber placement.

Why must you downgrade? Can't it just be a fantastic route? I hear so many people bitch about the bad attitude of sport climbers at Rifle, yet here it is in the heart of trad climbing. Leave the grades alone. One of my favorite routes ever. I couldn't decide though...do you crawl through the hole at the top? How cool is J-tree?

Great climbing with great gear. Fun jams! Nearly brained my belay when I got butterfingered with my orange alien. I unclipped it from my rack, found I was only holding a biner, and looked down to see it just miss his melon. He was checking out the girls though, didn't even notice. I'd say this one is totally fair at .10a, although it is easier than other .10as I've been on in Josh like Tax Man or Exorcist.