At a good rest, just below the first chimney. Pho...
Description
This route is the small right facing dihedral/ big crack just to the left of Pigs in Heat, which makes it two routes to the left of White Lightnig. A good alternative when waiting for White Lighting, as it is the same grade, however the climbing here is more varied and less straight forward. It is bascially the next big crack to the left of While Lightning, the one that opens up to a wide chimney about 2/3 the way up.
Start up the right facing dihedral/crack and place bomber gear. Make a few delicate face moves (7) and get up into the chimney. This looks intimidating, but don't worry, you can do it. Move towards the rear of the chimney, and begin up it. Place a small cam if you want near the back as you move up. The moves are supringly good. Use your feet and chimney!!! Move up and out to the left where you should be able to place a #3 cam to ease the mind. Move up past a tree, and into another chimney. I went up the the right out of this, or you can go underneath and then up. (watch rope drag!!). You can belay from the ledge on top (a bit to the right) and do the double rope rap above and right of White Lightning. The varied climbing here will toughen you up and make White Lightning easier, and also get you in a Chimney while you wait for the classic. Not a bad climb here!
Protection
A wide variety of sizes, I think I used a 3.5 camalot. Varied.
although Dung Fu gets the same rating (5.7) as White Lightning, I think its (DF) tough spots are more challenging than WL's because it can feel more awkward. WL is a cleaner route and more technically challenging (though straightforward).
for me, the first chimney was intimidating but it had reasonable protection.
at the first crux, I was clipping into my gear rather than additional runners, resulting in considerable rope drag once I exited the first chimney. as a result, I decided to belay from the cove of the 2nd chimney.
afterwards, we unroped for the short 2nd chimney. which is not a too dicey option because you will be fairly deep into the cove.
Very fun route. The chimney is a fun problem with plenty of good pro and hidden holds.
By caughtinside From: Point Richmond, CA Mar 30, 2007
A very interesting and fun route. I'd recommend this one over White Lighting. thin moves in the shallow corner low, and then some well protected chimneying up high. fun!
By 5.10b4me From: Alhambra, California Apr 29, 2007
although rated 5.7, more sustained than White Lightning or other 5.7 routes.
we didn't have any beta on this climb so we went the wrong way up when i got to chimney. i went all the way outside of the crack to the left around a very ackward overhang that seem like the actual continuation of the crack around the chimney...it just seemd wrong to go in the chimney with so much rope drag.. made things a bit more exciting thats for sure, id say it makes the climb a 5.8 by going outside of chimney instead of inside and stemming it.
the guide book does not tell you tha once you get to the cul de sac there is more face climbing. Aparently you can walk to th eback of the cave and stem up or you can stem the right side face fully exposed, pop in a couple pieces of questionable gear and climb the right side flake which is not in the guide book. After me and my friend nic decided to lead a formidable climb after the day before i led our first 5.6 The Bong we decided to jump up and do a longer 5.7 5.8 so we took Hemingway's wall dung fu. Quite a leap but nic did it all after just one little bout of downclimbing and then went on to not only make the cul de sac but climb the outside sketchy flake that i followed and cleaned up.
P.S. the guide book says climb the first crack straight up of the 3 crack systems for dung fu. Once you get up dung fu there is a big cul de sac. either climb up higher or set an anchor and belay fro here. A fantastic climb
Hemingway Buttress
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