Mr. Mercury topping out on the direct finish of "W...
Description
Near the left side of the wall is this hand/fist crack, which lies 5' left of Poodles Are People Too (5.10b) a nice looking thin crack.
Climb the classic crack straight up, moving slightly left near the top. Rap from anchors 20' right of the finish with two ropes (120' rap) or walk right and rap from anchors atop The Importance Of Being Ernest with one rope (75').
This is a great climb at a wall with many fine crack routes. Everyone should do this climb at least once as it is a good introduction to crack climbing and Josh in general.
Great Route, must do for the grade! I thought the crux was near the start,about 10-15 ft up, when you have to enter the crack past the little slabby part.Just throw in some pro, and go! The variation to the left near the top is veryfun (6). Enjoy!
By Tony B From: Boulder, CO Apr 15, 2003 rating: 5.7
The route was pretty good, but I've done better climbs at the grade.
You need two ropes to rapp off of the anchors just right of this, but you can walk well to the North out under a bridge and to a point of rock and find a set of bolt-anchors that allows for one rap on a single 50M rope.
By Dynomight510 From: San Diego Oct 1, 2003 rating: 5.7
The crux is a few moves after the start and the crack takes pro very well. The climb eases after that until you reach the last 20' where you can choose a 5.7 finish to the left or a 5.9 finish slightly to the right. You are at a soolid stance to place pro before you start either finish. However, the 5.9 finish involves a short sequence of 5.9 moves, so be strong enough to stop and place gear or power through the section w/o falling. The rock below you here is low angled. The 5.7 finish involves a hand crack.
If this route were anywhere else besides Joshua Tree, say for example Colorado, more people would agree on it being a three star line. If I were on a desert island and could have only one climb, would this be the one I'd take with me? No. But, thinking of all the other areas where I've climbed I'm going to call this spade a spade: three stars.
Hell yeah! Classic beyond words, believe the hype. Great straight forward jamming crack with excellent gear placements throughout the pitch, nice upper moves with excellent exposure. Simply and awesome climb anywhere.Don't forget to tape your hands or risk the cheese grater.
Good route. There are rap anchors off to the right. You can rap with one 60 meter rope but YOU NEED TO DO SOME DOWNCLIMBING. Do not rappel off the ends of your rope.
By Scott Edlin From: boulder, co Apr 12, 2006 rating: 5.7+
this route was the climax of my jtree trip. beautiful line, bomber jams, excellent pro, long, and sustained qualities all combined to make this more fun to me than bastille crack in eldorado canyon. if you liked double dogleg and thought it was a little easy, step up to this.
By Adam Stackhouse Administrator From: Escondido, Ca Apr 12, 2006 rating: 5.7
This a 3 out of 5 star route, that is easily accessed, accepts copious amounts of pro and lays at the lower end of the 5-scale. Highly recommended for the novice leader, or someone looking for a casual rope length climb.
By caughtinside From: Berkeley, CA Mar 30, 2007 rating: 5.8
hate to uprate a classic, but this is one of the more physical 5.7s you'll ever do! the crux is short, but takes some power. If double cross is .7+, this is an .8. Fun climb, but Overseer is a better warmup than this thing!
By Russ Walling From: www.FishProducts.com Aug 26, 2007
From the rap anchors described, a 70m will get you all the way back down to the deck, or real close to it.
This route felt exceptionally stout for the grade to me at the start. Perhaps for a DUDE it would feel easier, but the feet are polished and slippery and the initial crack is sustained at 3-4" for many moves--meaning less-than-secure chicken winging for us girlies, whereas I imagine many guys can get secure fist jams. I was gripped when I did it!
By ccmski From: Prescott, AZ Oct 26, 2009 rating: 5.7
Great line! The bottom crux is awkward and probably will be tough for begining leaders