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Amber Smith

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32 years old · Female
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More About Amber Drop down
Member Since
Jun 13, 2014
Last Visit: 5 days ago
0 Points DetailsDrop down
Likes Trad, Sport
Leads Follows
Trad 5.10a 5.10d
Sport 5.10c 5.11b
Other Interests
cycling, mountaineering, drawing, travel, yoga
More Info

To-Do List Sort & Filter All 8

5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 23
● Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
High Sierra > 01 - Hoover Wil… > Flatiron Butte (Shang…
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 566
● Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route
Trad 3 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > At. Reed's Pinn… > Reed's Pinnacle
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 29
● Dream Easy
Trad 4 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > At. Reed's Pinn… > Reed's Pinnacle
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 126
● Werner's Ant Trees
Trad
Yosemite NP > … > Five Open Books > First Tier
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 156
● Gripper
Trad 3 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > Lower Merced Ri… > Ad. Arch Rock
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 4
● The Hourglass, Right
Trad 3 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > A. Ribbon Falls… > 6. The Hourglass Wall
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route High Sierra > 01 - Hoover Wil… > Flatiron Butte (Shang…
 23
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
● Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Route Yosemite NP > … > At. Reed's Pinn… > Reed's Pinnacle
 566
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
● Dream Easy Yosemite NP > … > At. Reed's Pinn… > Reed's Pinnacle
 29
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
● Werner's Ant Trees Yosemite NP > … > Five Open Books > First Tier
 126
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● Gripper Yosemite NP > … > Lower Merced Ri… > Ad. Arch Rock
 156
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
● The Hourglass, Right Yosemite NP > … > A. Ribbon Falls… > 6. The Hourglass Wall
 4
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches

Ticks View All 15

AI2 Steep Snow
 78
● North Face North Couloir (right…
Jun 14, 2026 · Solo. Perfect firm steep snow. Brought stuff to pitch it out but solo’d instead.
Ice, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
High Sierra > 01 - Hoover Wil… > N Peak
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
● Slippery When Dry (center)
Aug 12, 2025 · Pothole dome right climbs are accessed from the meadow trail. Scramble up from climbers right, right before the wall steepens, directly out of the meadow. You will find three bolted anchors if you look closely. There is a giant patch of polish below the climber right anchor. All need to be extended a bunch!
TR
Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Pothole Dome
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 839
● Matthes Crest Traverse - South t…
Aug 9, 2025 · Met at 6:00, climbing by 10:30, south summit at 3pm, hiking again by 4:30. Brought 60m fuzzy rope and singles .3-3 with doubles in .5/.75/1, some bail nuts and extra tat as emergency plan. Climbed up to the ridge in 3 pitches. Then shorted the rope (70-100ft). I would climb until I reached the client, placing pro and weaving the rope around features, simiul some. If I got to a tricky section I would climb through and then build a belay. Easy to belay her in and then belay her down through some of the down climbing sections. Lots of stances and opportunities to have her wrap the rope around things. Easy looking bail option after section 2/3 on the supertopo, leaving gear. Second half it got even easier to terrain belay, I occasionally did a little short roping but the simul felt safer. At south summit I down belayed her in three sections (I left an anchor on the way up for her to clip into on an exposed stance). For the long down climb to inside the notch I ended up untying and down climbing. This down climbing was slow and maybe a lower would work better (not off the summit but below and climbers left of it). Then belayed her up to the notch and then down to the rappel tat. One 60m lower got her to the ground. Option for me to do a second rap or down climb the lower section.
Trad, Alpine
Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Range > Matthes Crest
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 2,139
● Southeast Buttress
Aug 9, 2025 · Brought single 3, single .3/.4 doubles in the middle sizes and worked adequately. At the top make sure the rope is running above the block rather than below for drag. Did one extra pitch near the top because the rope came short.
Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 354
● Hobbit Book
Jul 9, 2025 · Follow climbers left track on Gaia for approach, staying lower and more in the trees and walking past the major boulder field. Traverse boulder field to slabs and then eventually to some exposed dirt ledges. Keep hiking up and eventually rope up on a dirt ledge before 4th class traversing to route. This would probably be best to short pitch because it is more than 60m to base of the climb. Climb starts in a big dihedral with easy crack then turns right to sloping ledge belay. Second pitch is steep 5.6 in a corner to another sloping ledge. Face climbing pitch check holds before pulling on them, rock quality is good but still. Belay on small ledge right under the roof. Traverse roof and lead to the summit. Anchors are mostly hand sized gear so consider bringing more of those to make things easier. Descent is super easy down dirty slabs to gully with tower. Take right side of tower into talus and then link up with forest approach trail.
Trad 4 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > Mariuolumne Dome > W Face
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 44
● El Condor
Jul 9, 2025 · Lead. Approach for west crack but keep going all the way right until you see black water streak. Alternatively climb alimony crack past bolted anchor to a stance where you can uprooe and then walk to el condor. Pitch one right facing flakes to ledge, 60m rope makes it from stance on slab. Second pitch follow the directions of this page to bolted anchor, very reasonable. .5, black totem, .75, and a sling to tie off a knob. Third pitch straight up through knobs to horizontal that takes many different sized gear, 60m makes it to new bolted anchor on climbers right. Short rope/scramble to summit.
Trad 3 pitches
Yosemite NP > … > DAFF Dome > W Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● North Face North Couloir (r… High Sierra > 01 - Hoover Wil… > N Peak
 78
AI2 Steep Snow Ice, Snow, Alpine 6 pitches
Jun 14, 2026 · Solo. Perfect firm steep snow. Brought stuff to pitch it out but solo’d instead.
● Slippery When Dry (center) Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Pothole Dome
 16
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
Aug 12, 2025 · Pothole dome right climbs are accessed from the meadow trail. Scramble up from climbers right, right before the wall steepens, directly out of the meadow. You will find three bolted anchors if you look closely. There is a giant patch of polish below the climber right anchor. All need to be extended a bunch!
● Matthes Crest Traverse - So… Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Range > Matthes Crest
 839
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
Aug 9, 2025 · Met at 6:00, climbing by 10:30, south summit at 3pm, hiking again by 4:30. Brought 60m fuzzy rope and singles .3-3 with doubles in .5/.75/1, some bail nuts and extra tat as emergency plan. Climbed up to the ridge in 3 pitches. Then shorted the rope (70-100ft). I would climb until I reached the client, placing pro and weaving the rope around features, simiul some. If I got to a tricky section I would climb through and then build a belay. Easy to belay her in and then belay her down through some of the down climbing sections. Lots of stances and opportunities to have her wrap the rope around things. Easy looking bail option after section 2/3 on the supertopo, leaving gear. Second half it got even easier to terrain belay, I occasionally did a little short roping but the simul felt safer. At south summit I down belayed her in three sections (I left an anchor on the way up for her to clip into on an exposed stance). For the long down climb to inside the notch I ended up untying and down climbing. This down climbing was slow and maybe a lower would work better (not off the summit but below and climbers left of it). Then belayed her up to the notch and then down to the rappel tat. One 60m lower got her to the ground. Option for me to do a second rap or down climb the lower section.
● Southeast Buttress Yosemite NP > … > Cathedral Peak > Southeast Slopes
 2,139
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine 5 pitches
Aug 9, 2025 · Brought single 3, single .3/.4 doubles in the middle sizes and worked adequately. At the top make sure the rope is running above the block rather than below for drag. Did one extra pitch near the top because the rope came short.
● Hobbit Book Yosemite NP > … > Mariuolumne Dome > W Face
 354
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 4 pitches
Jul 9, 2025 · Follow climbers left track on Gaia for approach, staying lower and more in the trees and walking past the major boulder field. Traverse boulder field to slabs and then eventually to some exposed dirt ledges. Keep hiking up and eventually rope up on a dirt ledge before 4th class traversing to route. This would probably be best to short pitch because it is more than 60m to base of the climb. Climb starts in a big dihedral with easy crack then turns right to sloping ledge belay. Second pitch is steep 5.6 in a corner to another sloping ledge. Face climbing pitch check holds before pulling on them, rock quality is good but still. Belay on small ledge right under the roof. Traverse roof and lead to the summit. Anchors are mostly hand sized gear so consider bringing more of those to make things easier. Descent is super easy down dirty slabs to gully with tower. Take right side of tower into talus and then link up with forest approach trail.
● El Condor Yosemite NP > … > DAFF Dome > W Face
 44
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 3 pitches
Jul 9, 2025 · Lead. Approach for west crack but keep going all the way right until you see black water streak. Alternatively climb alimony crack past bolted anchor to a stance where you can uprooe and then walk to el condor. Pitch one right facing flakes to ledge, 60m rope makes it from stance on slab. Second pitch follow the directions of this page to bolted anchor, very reasonable. .5, black totem, .75, and a sling to tie off a knob. Third pitch straight up through knobs to horizontal that takes many different sized gear, 60m makes it to new bolted anchor on climbers right. Short rope/scramble to summit.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 6 1 1
Last Year 6 1 1
5 Years 56 15 10
All Time 56 15 10

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