Type: Trad, Alpine, 1500 ft, 12 pitches, Grade IV
FA: (FFA Musiyenko Vitaliy, Caitlin Taylor 2014)
Page Views: 2,204 total · 56/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1 - 5.7 or 5.8. - More of an approach pitch. Starts wit some blocky crack climbing below the big obvious corner in the middle of the face. Gear belay below the prominent wide corner.
Pitch 2 - 5.10a - Nice hand and fist jamming grows into a wider crack before the terrain eases up. A bit burly. Gear belay in an alcove.
Pitch 3 - 5.10a. - Handjam and chimney up till you reach a roof with an old bolt. Pull the roof and belay from a bolted belay around the corner.
Pitch 4 - 5.8. - This pitch may be combined with the next, but breaking it in two should prevent the rope drag. You climb up and left from the belay towards the obvious wide crack system going up (old bolts can be seen next to the crack) the middle of the formation. You don't climb up that system. Belay at the base or where it makes sense or to the right. Gear belay if you stop here.
Pitch 5 - 5.9. - continue traversing to another system on the right side of the "heart." Face climb through easier terrain with sparse pro till you reach the weakness. Part way up it you will see an anchor. One bolt and gear.
Pitch 6 - 5.9 or 5.10a. - Traverse right past a fixed head (from the FA of Et Tu Brute) from the belay and get into a good hand crack. There is a perfect blue metolius placement next to the head, which was placed (I have no idea why) by the FA party. Climb up it and continue right towards the prow where another bolted anchor awaits. Or maybe it is a gear anchor. You are aiming for the obvious splitter which is seen above, going through a few roofs.
Pitch 7 - 5.10a. Climb up to the overhang and pull over onto the prow with a crack going towards a roof. Pull one of the smaller roofs and belay at a bush (fingers to medium cams - gear belay) or combine with the next pitch if you have a 70M rope.
Pitch 8 - 5.11-. Great splitter. Pull the roof on thin jams and ring locks. Jam up a beautiful crack which grows from thin hands to perfect hands, to cupped hands and fists. Fun!
Pitch 9 - 5.9. Continue up the crack system above to a bolted belay at a nice stance. The belay is left of the main system.
Pitch 10 - 5.11- or 5.10d. Blocky crack climbing in the corner takes you to a wide bulge in the middle of the pitch. More steep crack climbing in the corner above that. Bigger cams are nice to have on this pitch, but could do it without. Continue up to a bolted belay on top of the route.

Another 500 ft of soloing, simul-climbing or a few pitches of belayed climbing where it makes sense. Difficulties to 5.6-5.9 could be encountered, based on how interesting do you want to make it. Summit has great views, enjoy!

Location

snwburd.com/bob/maps/hanna_…

Route starts in the middle of the face up the obvious blocky crack system which will take you to a large corner below the 'Heart.'

DESCENT from the back side of the formation, to the west - 3rd class. A little loose but nothing bad. You are aiming to the large boulder field and continue NW. Once you are down, turn east, which will take you back around the formation and to your camp in Little Walker Canyon.

Protection

Double rack from small to #3 camalots. Single #4 and #6 BD camalot optional. A set of nuts from small to medium.

Photos

Dr. Crushenstein
Ogden, Ut
 
Dr. Crushenstein   Ogden, Ut
 
Did this beast car to car on 7/16/16. It's a great adventure so I will keep the beta brief in order to preserve the adventurous nature of the route. With that being said there are a few things I think should be mentioned. I will also post our timeline to give an idea of how fast you will need to go and still make it back to the car before dark.

Pitch 8 is only 120 ft and can be linked from pitch 7 if you have the gear and the endurance. It would be one hell of a pitch but this would avoid a heinous hanging belay.

On pitch 9 if you stop at the obvious pedestal on the left the bolts will be behind you. I missed these bolts due to delirium from a long day and linked this pitch into pitch 10. This can only be done with a 70m rope.

Due to the mistake described above I did not have the #6 for pitch 10. To be honest with you I didn't think it was a big deal and if I were to go back I wouldn't bring a #6 since we carried it around all day and never really place it on the route.

Our timeline:
4:30am - Left the car
9:00am - Started climbing (We lost some time on the attempted approach onsight)
1:00pm - At the base of the splitter crux pitch
3:30pm - At the top of the route
4:30pm - On the summit
5:30pm - Back to the base of the route
9:00pm - Back to the car just before dark

I highly recommend giving this route a go. It's a beautiful valley and the route needs to see some traffic to clean up. The description posted here is plenty accurate to get you through the route so just head up there and have at it. Jul 18, 2016
BFK
San Francisco
 
BFK   San Francisco
 
Definitely an adventure climb with a very remote feeling. We did it car-to-car and it certainly makes for a very big day. Agree with route descriptions and previous poster's comments. Here is some additional clarifying points.
Pitch 2: Will wake you up, 5.9++. Also, there is a loose bock/blade just after you pull out of the wide crack that could come down right on top of leader & belayer, use caution.
Pitch 6: This pitch does indeed have 2 bolts and an old piton for an anchor, they are higher than you think after you traverse around the prow.
Pitch 7-8: These can be linked but it becomes a major enduro-fest. Linking makes the most sense to avoid an awkward belay in a bush and pitch 7 takes mostly small pieces you won't use on pitch 8. Doing this I think bumps grade to 11b for the combined pitch (or maybe I'm trying to make myself feel better...)
Pitch 8: Anchor is one new bolt and a piton up and left after you exit splitter crack.
Pitch 9: Anchor is one bolt on a detached block left. Highly recommend using this belay as it puts your belayer in a safe position for belaying pitch 10:
Pitch 10: Safety crux. Choose what you pull on wisely.

The area is active with wild life. We had a pair of yellowish eyes following us for a bit as we hiked out which just added to the overall adventure... Aug 8, 2016
revans90
  5.10+
revans90  
  5.10+
you can link 1&2 3&4 5&6 7&8 with a 60m rope. Very fun route and is cleaning up nicely. pitch 10 will be interesting when more falls out of it!

oh and pitch 7 belay bolts are farther up and right just past a beautiful quartz vein. very interesting and beautiful granite up there. Aug 18, 2016