Mountain Project Logo

Routes in First Tier

Antique T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Caverns, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Commitment T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fire Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hanging Teeth T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jughead T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Munginella T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Surprise, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Try Again Ledge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Werner's Ant Trees T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Work Around the Skirt S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: W. Braun, J. Coe, and J. Anderson, August 1970
Page Views: 2,367 total, 18/month
Shared By: Sirius on Apr 13, 2007
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


51 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description


Begin up blocky rock to gain a clean, right-angling fingers/lieback ramp (.10a). Follow this ramp until a sequence of face moves up and left of the crack comes into view, near the top of the ramp. Move up through these crux face moves past a bolt (if it's there; rumor of it being chopped as of late '06/early '07?) and around a series of minor roofs. Either belay at pin with additional gear, or continue up easier terrain to the upper pitches of The Surprise (gear anchor).

Combining this pitch with the last two pitches of the Surprise makes for an excellent 3-pitch, 5.10 affair, and is sooo recommended.

Location

Approach as for Commmitment, continue past the Surprise ~40 ft until you find the obvious ramp start to WAT.

Protection

Doubles to 2", single 3" if continuing up The Surpise.

Photos

- No Photos -
Sean Wenrick
lemoore,CA
Sean Wenrick   lemoore,CA
I've spoken to aaizumi and concluded that he was either off route or on a completely different route all together when he fell. I don't think this route warrants a PG-13 or R rating either, it protects just fine. Werner's Ant tree is my favorite route at the Yosemite falls area and doesn't seem to hard for the 10c rating it's given. May 12, 2017
Phillip Bay
San Francisco, California
 
Phillip Bay   San Francisco, California
 
The route is definitely a little dirty because it doesn't see that much traffic, but the gear is all there, I wouldn't give it a PG13. No bolt at the roof moves, but I found a bomber .3 camalot to protect the move left around the roof. The rest was awesome! May 5, 2017
aaizumi  
Dear mountain project,

I had a ground fall at the Crux due to dirty rock and unavailable gear.

If you climb this route and find 2 cams please contact me:
Andrewizumi@yahoo.com

It would be very nice to have this gear back.

Thank you, and please be careful with this route. It should have a pg13 or R rating.

- Andrew Jul 15, 2016
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.10-
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.10-
IMHO:
-The lieback 10a section to start is pretty mellow.
-The 10c crux isn't that hard if you have a sporty/boulderer mentality. However, with only one thin, expanding flake to protect, it can be scary. Beta spray: A #.3 X4/C4 will protect well in this thing, but it will give up your best handhold. There's a good left hand once you pull the roof/bulge, but you can't easily see it.
-The huge 5.8 pitch to the ledge with a bolt felt like 5.9 to me in places, and is just really long and sustained.
-The crux of the route for me the is "The Surprise", when the 10a crack moves left and gets really thin or ends. Really hard even following this, but maybe I didn't go the best way.
-Might be the best route at FOB! Nov 9, 2015
Quan
  5.10b
Quan  
  5.10b
Exceptional pitch of climbing. If the lieback would have lasted longer I'd have given it four stars.
Lieback section is fun and maybe a little soft for the grade. Don't let the 10c rating of the crux scare you off; it protects well with nuts and the movement is fantastic. I'd definitely choose this variation again over the original start of The Surprise. Oct 28, 2015
Zachary W
San Francisco, California
  5.10b PG13
Zachary W   San Francisco, California
  5.10b PG13
Still no bolt as of 1/2014. Crux moves are spicy with thin pro in expanding flakes, but it definitely feels easier than 10c. Linking this into The Surprise makes for the best route at FOB! Jan 24, 2014
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.10b
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.10b
No bolt but the thing laces up with great small nuts, so bring plenty. Probably not .10c either. Nov 18, 2011
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10c PG13
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10c PG13
Not R, but kinda scary after moving out of the .10a lieback into the .10c section. Definitely no bolt, but there was a fixed nut, which my partner removed. There are other spots for small gear or nuts (I used a green c3) in a small pod to the climbers left (after moving out left from the lieback section).

Great pitch overall, great liebacking and fun face moves with good rests in between. A great first pitch variation to the surprise. Nov 8, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c PG13
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c PG13
Climbed this in early Oct 09- bolt is not there. a #1 BD C3 gives some psychological protection on this crux traverse. Linked this pitch to Suprise for a stellar 4 star 2 pitch linkup (we had a 70m rope). Highly recommended. Oct 17, 2009
Dennis
 
Dennis  
 
Great fun. I spent too much time looking for a bolt that isn't there to begin the traverse. Look for a pod/jug. This is where you go left. Bring small nuts or cams to protect the crux traverse, though your gear will be more psychological than protective.

Also, chopped bolt at the optional first belay (70'). Only a piton and 1-4" cracks a plenty for gear. Better yet, continue another 70' for a better belay stance.

Great way to start Surprise! Mar 11, 2008
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.10c R
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.10c R
We didn't see any bolts and personally I found the pro where you move left a the expanding flake a bit sketchy, hence my R rating. Excellent Eldo-esque climbing. I agree, it seems a logical start to the Surprise and makes for an amazing 2-3 pitch climb. Oct 22, 2007