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Elevation: 10,918 ft 3,328 m
GPS: 37.8186, -119.3992
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Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Aug 15, 2007
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description Suggest change

Matthes Crest is an extremely long knife edge fin that cuts across a spectacular part of Tuolumne. It is sought after for its length, moderate grade, and the unique element of a huge fin traverse in an awe inspiring area of the country. It is most widely known for its traverse, but many other routes exist on both sides.

The Matthes Crest Traverse is a true 5 star classic route characterized by mostly 4th class climbing with the occasional fifth class section. With immense exposure on many sections it offers a rare experience to enjoy such a long moderate route in an idyllic setting. Located in a region completely invisible to tourists or road traffic, it gives the true feel of a backcountry alpine climb.

Getting There Suggest change

Located in Tuolumne Meadows, Yosemite. Park at the Cathedral Lakes trailhead along Highway 120. Bear boxes and port-a-potties are available here.

3 miles on good trails and 3 miles cross-country
1700' elevation gain (2,300' total gain to top of Matthes Crest)

Head South down the John Muir Trail toward Cathedral Lakes. After ~8 minutes the trail curves right and ascends about 30 granite rock steps. About 200' after these steps there is a well traveled climbers trail that is
(to keep hikers on the correct trail). Follow this trail that runs along Budd Creek for a while then diverges right. It is a pretty good trail for about 1.5 miles. Cross a more open area of rock slightly right that is often marked by cairns. The trail reappears. Eventually you will see a creek crossing and the trail splits here. Following it up the hill on the right will take you to Cathedral Peaks. Instead cross the creek on your left across some fallen logs (very obvious). Continue following the trail on to Budd Lake. At the West end of Budd Lake, head South through a weakness by Echo Peaks. Ascend this steep/loose section and veer left (East) around Echo Peaks. Matthes Crest will come into view from this top section. Head down into the valley and walk cross country to the South end of Matthes Crest.

4 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Matthes Crest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 763
Matthes Crest Traverse - South t…
Trad, Alpine
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 89
North Ridge of Matthes Crest
Trad, Alpine
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 6
Anduril
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Matthes Crest Traverse - So…
 763
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
North Ridge of Matthes Crest
 89
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Alpine
Anduril
 6
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
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