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Routes in Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)

Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Golden Triangle T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 11,500 ft
GPS: 38.198, -119.491 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 3,924 total, 145/month
Shared By: SirTobyThe3rd on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Striking granite peak surrounded with stunning scenery. Has three known routes that go up it, even though the complete history of the climbing on the formation is a mystery.

publications.americanalpine…

Getting There

The shortest drive to an alpine peak on the East side from the Bay Area. Not much elevation gain on the six mile approach.

Turn south on Little Walker Road from Hwy 395, south east of the junction with Hwy 108 (Sonora Junction), about 5 miles south along Little Walker, then Little Walker River Road to the Burt Canyon Trailhead.

Permits
Permits are available at the Bridgeport Visitor Center or by mail from March 1 through three weeks prior to the first day of you trip - trailhead is Burt Canyon.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route
Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Alpine 12 pitches
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Dr. Crushenstein
Reno, Nv
Dr. Crushenstein   Reno, Nv
Of note is that the road that will take you up to the gate is just before the Burt Canyon Trailhead parking. Do not pass that parking lot, cross the bridge and continue. This may be obvious in the daylight but it is not in the dark. Jul 18, 2016
Secor's guide doesn't extend this far north. ;)

the climb/FA? I did up the northwest face is named

Little Walker's Big Reveal, III, 5-6p, 5.8.

It starts left of a low angle blocky buttress up and left through a cool white dike, through some 3rd class then up an obvious "20-25 foot wide ramp" feature, right of the black dot that goes mostly straight up to the notch left of the summit. A short pitch to the false summit, then scramble to the true summit.

I think most would want to find their own line rather than repeat what I did, or do Becky's route up the north arĂȘte, but it was fun, not too chossy with some 3rd/4th class sections. May 31, 2016
What is on this page is the beta. If you have further questions or want a topo let me know. I should make a topo...been lazy. Sorry.
The route up the middle have seen the First Ascent in 2014 and the other has seen the First Ascent in 2014. It is much more recent development than what is documented in Secor. I don't think this formation is in the Secor or any climbing guidebook.
NO LINES! :) And it is really good climbing on the Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route. Parasitic Nematode is a bit more heads up and sustained. Pretty good climbing though and the line for both is obvious. Apr 11, 2016
Anyone have any beta on the northeast or northwest face routes? Can it be found in the Secor book? Apr 10, 2016
You can add that one to the page, Split! :)

I guess 5 routes known, because there is a way to scramble up it from the back by 2nd or 3rd to easy 4th class, with multiple options. Sep 28, 2015
Nice addition Vitaliy.

I'll add that the approach is more like 8 miles and there is a 4th known route up the northwest face to the "notch" at 5.8. :) Sep 28, 2015

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