Type: Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches
GPS: 44.0636, -71.16568
FA: Grant Simmons, July 2020
Page Views: 1,072 total · 16/month
Shared By: Grant Simmons on Jul 14, 2020
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

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Description Suggest change

Great climbing and a spectacular position in the center of the Mordor Wall.  I'm proposing 5.10d for the grade but I think it will feel pretty pumpy and out there on the onsight.  Maybe harder?  

Pitch 1:  Start by climbing up the third pitch of Diagonal, taking a hard right after 25’. A techy slab crux leads to some pumpy climbing to get to, and through, the roof. Get a quick shake, aim for a high a horizontal, and traverse right to a bolted anchor at a good stance.

Pitch 2: Move right into a short corner and head up to a testy slab sequence that guards the final romp to the trees.

Location Suggest change

Access the route by climbing up to the Diagonal Block and then following Diagonal through its 5.4 pitch.  Belay at the anchor on the left side of the dike.

Protection Suggest change

Rack to #2, with an extra cam in the .4 - .5 range.

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