Type: Trad, Aid, 400 ft
FA: Paul Ross and Mike Hintz
Page Views: 2,365 total · 18/month
Shared By: john strand on Jul 14, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

A companion to the Mordor Wall.

Pitch 1: Bolts and hooks up to a thin crack. C2 (Has been attempted free. May be the cliff's first 5.14)

Pitch 2: WILD- move right along a thin seam(rp's)to some fixed stuff. Down climb to the lip and traverse right to the safety of a small ledge. 10+RR

Pitch 3: Two aid moves on dowels the start a sustained thin slab up to a small roof and Freak Out Ledge. 5.12c A0

Pitch 4: Aid up a crack or face climb out right to bolts and cool steep slab climbing to a ledge under Diagonal. 5.11+

Pitch 5: Up a bit the work left past fixed gear and the final runout slab to the top. 5.11

Location

30' right of Standard and 30' left of Mordor

Protection

A lot is fixed- bring wires and some cams

Photos

USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Correction first ascent was by Paul Ross and Mike Hintz... no Comeau in sight Jul 30, 2008
john strand
southern colo
  5.12b/c C2
john strand   southern colo
  5.12b/c C2
I guess I got confused by Alain's winter attempt. Aug 3, 2008