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Routes in The Mordor Wall

Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Connection T A3
Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R
Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2
Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Tim Kemple Jr and Tim Kemple Sr
Page Views: 2,753 total · 29/month
Shared By: bayard russell jr on May 14, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A full length route free climbing most of Mines' first pitch and joining Mines' second pitch near its top. The 5.11 corner third pitch is supposed to be really good. They finished on The Bridge.

p.1 Start up Mines and take a left at the end of the flake, past a bolt and a hard exit move protected by small gear. Belay at bolt anchor above. A compact pitch with incredible climbing, powerful. 5.12d ish?

p.2 Straight up off the belay, follow some bolts/heads right until below an obtuse corner, that becomes distinct. Straight up from here, stepping left onto a good stance afer the crux and a random two bolt anchor. Finish up the crack/seam to a bolted belay on a great ledge 25' above the lip. Was a bit crumbly but has cleaned up beautifully, great pitch. 5.13a.

p.3 Follow the corner system to the belay on the Bridge 5.11.

Location

Above the big ash tree 50' left of where the Pendulum tree's remains lay.

Protection

Decent but not always great. After the first pitch crux it can feel necky, but small gear comes quickly. The second pitch crux is protected by small fixed bashies.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Good to hear about the bashies !

at least some of the Great Cathedral routes still haven't been bolted up Dec 8, 2015
JeffP  
While working the route this fall, I pulled one of the heads and broke the cable on another. Luckily, the heads are not necessary as there are bomber cam placements inches from each of them (and one of the bolts). Great climb with a weird fixed gear situation on P2. Dec 7, 2015
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
 
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
 
Just changed the grade to 13a, that seems to be the consensus. Sorry, didn't realize that the grade given originally stuck, I thought it averaged out. Mar 31, 2012
I'd describe the climbing on the first two pitches as a series of sustained hard 5.12 granite boulder problems, with some reasonable 5.10 rests in between. The climbing is continuously heady, but rarely truly dangerous. A classic of the modern trad idiom. May 7, 2011
I would say 13a r. R rated because it is clearly dangerous. Bayard really f'ed himself up on this. A groin pull is a real possibility! The mental stamina required to focus on hard moves while potentially hurting yourself makes a send of this route a rare occurrence. May 7, 2011
bayard russell jr
Madison, NH
 
bayard russell jr   Madison, NH
 
5.12+/5.13 a or b, somewhere in there... I find it tricky to grade this kind of beta intensive climbing.

Last summer I tore my groin doing the rock over move on the second pitch and couldn't walk for almost two weeks! Felt like I pretty much had it in the bag too..

This is a really good route. May 5, 2011
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
The second pitch that Bayard describes is the unknown A4 pitch I posted. I think Tim and John Branscom freed the pitch? May 14, 2010
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Didn't Tim call this 5.13a/b?

neclimbs.com/index.php?Page… May 14, 2010

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