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Routes in The Mordor Wall

Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Connection T A3
Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R
Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2
Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Brian Delaney, Joe Lentini, FA of the Bridge (July 1976) Jim Dunn, Bryan Becker, First continuous ascent (Sep 1976)
Page Views: 13,460 total, 134/month
Shared By: David Aguasca! on Sep 4, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

This route combines some of the best pitches of climbing on the Mordor Wall, taking two from The Pendulum Route and one (and a half) from Lights in the Forest, the last being the imposing Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, a huge jamming and undercling roof.

Pitch 1: 5.8, 90'. The original start was shared with the Pendulum Route, which involved chimneying between the rock and a large tree at the base of the wall. The tree has fallen, but there is now a bolt ladder. Continue up the steep corner hand crack and mantel onto the tree ledge.

Pitch 2: 5.10b, 40'. This is the second pitch of the Pendulum route. It follows a small overlap that you must undercling to the right. Small gear useful on this pitch.

Pitch 3: 5.9, 140'. This long pitch has some good exposure. It also needs a little more traffic...it is very dirty. Start by moving left into the cracks in the corner, laybacking and stemming up to a bolt. Clip it long and move to the right for some more laybacking up to the huge nose of rock. Chimney up this to a good stance.

Pitch 4: 5.8, 70'. From the stance, continue up through some trees to a nice hand crack in the back of a corner, to a small roof. Traverse left under the roof with more ease, but with much less protection, to the belay ledge below The Bridge.

Pitch 5: 5.11d, 70'. If you don't know where to go from here, you may as well pack up and go home. Jam and undercling, sometimes awkwardly, always strenously, out the huge, burly roof hanging over your head. It is STELLAR climbing. Did I mention it is burly? Pull around the lip and layback more easily up to a two-bolt belay.

Pitch 6: 5.10c, 100'. Scramble up and left to MOE, an obvious flake and thin face, past a bolt, into the trees.

Location

Locate the large, large downed tree that used to stand at the base of the cliff.

Protection

A standard Cathedral rack, plus doubles or even triples of cams in the 2"-3.5" range for the Bridge pitch. There are two bolts on the Bridge pitch that I would not clip, unless you like falling on bolts that will probably rip out.
And you would be correct John; it is spelled that way in guidebooks. I think what happened is that my brother Brian started spelling his name with a y when he was climbing with Bryan Becker in the mid to late 70's. I mean, we were both young and he must have liked something about the alternate spelling. And then when he got a little older he reverted back to the way my mom and dad intended. So, as I said, just for the record. Aug 6, 2014
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Sorry for the "Y" i was going by 30 years of guidebooks Jul 28, 2014
Thank you. Best Regards, Mark Delaney Jul 28, 2014
M Sprague
New England
M Sprague   New England  
Thank you. It has been corrected. He will be missed by the climbing community. Jul 21, 2014
Brian Delaney's (RIP) name is spelled the way I've just spelled it, rather than the way it's spelled above. Just for the record.
Jul 20, 2014
K. Boyko
Where the dog is
 
K. Boyko   Where the dog is
 
Solo aided this on thanksgiving. Flare before the roof is definitely the crux and I ended up freeing it, but has many options for gear. The roof went with 2 Camelots #2s then #3s, the end can fit a #4 or a #5 in a meter section.

The fourth pitch's description as less protected is an understatement. At least it felt terrifying; in the dark, wet, first go, runout traverse, on a grigri... Just a heads up. The rest of the route was fantastic. Can't wait to free it next season. Jan 16, 2013
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Just a detail:- The first ascent of the Bridge pitch was done mostly on aid by Joe Cote,John Porter,Paul Ross in 1972 as the 4th pitch of The Mines of Morea. The FFA of the Bridge pitch was done four years later in 1976 by Brian Delaney. Nov 26, 2012
CCliffe
 
CCliffe  
 
I bumped a lot of my gear doing this route - just sayin it's a good idea.

As with any route of this type:
!!!Be careful with your cam placements before and after the ending of the roof part!!!

If you look inside the crack about 8ft up the layback section past the roof there is a BD # 0.75 about 3 ft in the crack, barely even camed. Unfortunately I was the idiot that placed the piece and then proceeded to lose it after my second fell.

Still a bomb-ass route. Jun 7, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
this used to be fairly popular coming in from the top, rapping down and doing just the Bridge pitch. Given the tree falling down now, two long raps would still give one the meat of the route. Sep 30, 2009
There is now a small bolt ladder in lieu of the Pendulum tree. The block is still there and definitely moves. Working around it is easy enough however.
Having shoes that edge well for the crux pitch will not go unappreciated. The feet for much of the business are strenuously-small, incut edges. If free climbing, a BD #3 can get you past the flare and to smaller gear options around the corner (but, yes, if your'e willing to heft it to the top of the Mordor Wall the flare can take larger gear). Sep 20, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
I could definitely see using those size pieces if you were aiding, but I don't think they are necessary to protect the climb well. They would only fit at the lip, and that's the hardest place (because of pump and hold quality) to plug gear.

The flare is awkward enough to get into free climbing...thinking about what that must be like on aid makes me cringe. So awkward.

I think the block you speak of is still there. It doesn't seem loose, but it does stick out alarmingly far. Sep 8, 2009
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
You don't use gear bigger than 3.5"? I've aided it a couple times now and definetly bring along the wc 5&6's. How is the first flare to get into before the roof proper, that to me is the aid crux of the pitch. Also, is that terrible loose block directly above the belay still there? Sep 8, 2009
David Aguasca!
New York
 
David Aguasca!   New York
 
The gear on the Bridge is great. The problem is placing it while underclinging with one hand and the roof in your face, so be careful. I definitely placed some cams that were close to being tipped out. Emphasis on #2 and #3 C4/camalots.

The rest of the route is pretty typical for Cathedral gear. Sometimes you have to work for it, especially on pitch 3. Sep 7, 2009
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
before i just wanted to do this route cuz the name is AWESOME!!!! now i see the pictures and i REALLY want to do this route! the gear looks good from the pic is it? and is it ok placing? or are there sketchy parts? Sep 6, 2009
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Great addition David. Sep 6, 2009