The Bridge of Khazad-Dûm
Avg: 3.8 from 12 votes
|Type:||Trad, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Brian Delaney, Joe Lentini, FA of the Bridge (July 1976) Jim Dunn, Bryan Becker, First continuous ascent (Sep 1976)|
|Page Views:||13,495 total · 132/month|
|Shared By:||David Aguasca! on Sep 4, 2009|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis route combines some of the best pitches of climbing on the Mordor Wall, taking two from The Pendulum Route and one (and a half) from Lights in the Forest, the last being the imposing Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, a huge jamming and undercling roof.
Pitch 1: 5.8, 90'. The original start was shared with the Pendulum Route, which involved chimneying between the rock and a large tree at the base of the wall. The tree has fallen, but there is now a bolt ladder. Continue up the steep corner hand crack and mantel onto the tree ledge.
Pitch 2: 5.10b, 40'. This is the second pitch of the Pendulum route. It follows a small overlap that you must undercling to the right. Small gear useful on this pitch.
Pitch 3: 5.9, 140'. This long pitch has some good exposure. It also needs a little more traffic...it is very dirty. Start by moving left into the cracks in the corner, laybacking and stemming up to a bolt. Clip it long and move to the right for some more laybacking up to the huge nose of rock. Chimney up this to a good stance.
Pitch 4: 5.8, 70'. From the stance, continue up through some trees to a nice hand crack in the back of a corner, to a small roof. Traverse left under the roof with more ease, but with much less protection, to the belay ledge below The Bridge.
Pitch 5: 5.11d, 70'. If you don't know where to go from here, you may as well pack up and go home. Jam and undercling, sometimes awkwardly, always strenously, out the huge, burly roof hanging over your head. It is STELLAR climbing. Did I mention it is burly? Pull around the lip and layback more easily up to a two-bolt belay.
Pitch 6: 5.10c, 100'. Scramble up and left to MOE, an obvious flake and thin face, past a bolt, into the trees.