Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches
FA: Jay Conway - October 14, 2018
Page Views: 2,719 total · 80/month
Shared By: jason conway on Oct 17, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


1 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
-none-

Description

Life the universe and everything. The best route I have done!

Pitch 1: (11+) Climb the first pitch of Cecile (This pitch broke and is now easier and more fun). If this pitch is wet you can use the pendulum bolt ladder to get onto the ledge.

Pitch 2: (14a) Climb all of the hard part of difficulties be damned but head left at the roof for a wild sequence of moves that finishes with a stout v4ish mantle and a 2 bolt anchor at the base of the hanging slab. This finish is considerably harder and better than the original.

Pitch 3: (12b) The Enduro slab! Nothing stopper on this pitch but never easy and very few opportunities to shake your calves. This is bolted in Cathedral slab style and is stressful at times. At the end of the slab a really fun traverse leads into the top of highway 61’s third pitch which ends at the comfy ledge at the base of the Bridge of Khazad Doom.

Pitch 4: (13c) The Edge of the Bridge pitch. This pitch has the hardest moves of the whole route. It is basically a 4 move V8 to a clip into a 7 move V8. After the last bolt turn the corner to join Divisions of labor. Climb this to the tree ledge. This pitch is like climbing a beer fridge!

Pitch 5: (10b) Finish up Divisions of labor.

Some logistical notes:

-The belays are really comfy overall.

-Total rack is about 15 quickdraws with a few 2 foot slings, 4 finger size cams, a .5 and a #1. After the first pitch the biggest you need is a .5.

-If your second is going to jug the crux pitch it is good to have a rope protector over the lip. --Having someone second this pitch will destroy your rope. It is also good to use 3 two foot slings to keep the rope running smooth.

-For the arête pitch it is best to put a directional at the base of the arête and belay a few feet down in the corner below.

-You can rap the whole route with a single 70 but be careful it’s pretty close in 2 spots.

It is really easy to drop in from the top directly below “The classroom” at the top of the cliff.

Location

Mordor wall, same start as Cecile. 

Protection

A lot of bolts but you certainly need about 6 or so cams.

Photos

0 Comments