Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation)
Avg: 1 from 1 vote
Routes in The Mordor Wall
|Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R|
|Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a|
|Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a|
|Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|French Connection T A3|
|Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R|
|Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c|
|MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2|
|Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2|
|Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13|
|Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||511 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Ryan Barber on Aug 2, 2011|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionContinue right after the bolt as you would for at the start of Apocalypse, and follow the dike up and right around a corner. Instead of continuing right up the dike as you would for Apocalypse, sling the tree and go straight up and left into the corner and over the bulge onto the ledge. Anchor onto the fixed anchor above the block and continue either on Diagonal or Apocalypse as you see fit.
If you want, you can move left and hop back onto Standard Route.
This route was climbed after a thunderstorm as a variation to Repulsion because the leader did not want to slip on the 5.8+ beginning. Instead he traversed right into the unknown, and made his way up this "slippery corner" unsure if his feet would hold against the wet and dirty smears.
LocationStart up the dike to the left of the Standard Route chimney that begins both Apocalypse and Repulsion.
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