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Routes in The Mordor Wall

Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Connection T A3
Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R
Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2
Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Steve Arsenault and Paul Doyle, September 1967. FFA Ed Webster and Ajax Greene August, 1976.
Page Views: 1,931 total, 22/month
Shared By: bradley white on Oct 12, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

The first climb to go through this section of Cathedral. It used to start off of a branch near the cliff but the tree is gone. Now steep aid to reach the start on bolts of 'Highway 61'. Climb overlap undercling right to reach a decent belay (5.10a) Climb directly up groove corner ( 'Lights in the Forest' has the same start) to moves out left on bulges until ceiling crack is reached. Mantle crack at fixed lost arrow and follow crack to belay place (5.9+). Move horizontal short distance to the base of a shallow right facing corner and cramped belay. Do difficult thin moves up corner (5.10c-d) run out and move left under giant ceiling to a decent belay ledge. Climb the pendulum roof crack directly on aid (A-2) or move up left to traverse right inward above ceiling and jump to jugs for the (5.11d) free lunge. I couldn't bring myself to do the lunge so I ended up aiding it. After the ceiling belay higher up on a decent ledge. Continue up the crack to the top on beautiful jams to typical Cathedral Ledge wider crack stuff near the end.

Location

Near to the Cathedral cave right side. Find the remains of the very old big tree and look up to see the undercling crack of the former first pitch.

Protection

Trad. rack, Friends and smallest TCU's to back up the old pins or replace the old pins.
I know this route never gets done this way, but on the 1st ascent, the big pendulum was quite fun. ( I never did one before). The crack you pendulum into is quite clean, and beautiful, which leads directly to the sidewalk ledge.

I placed a bolt on the slab, going up to the big roof, which possibly was taken away by ice fall, years later. I tried to lead this 5.9 slab a few years ago, without the bolt, and found it pretty scary. Sep 25, 2014
E thatcher
Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
E thatcher   Plymouth/ North Conway (NH)
a couple of thoughts after adventuring up this climb. The climbing is generally fun well protected and consistent at 5.10. no super classic leads, and can be dirty, but an enjoyable adventure. There's 1, maybe 2 gear anchors and the rest are fixed, 4 of them being solid 2 bolt belays. Can bail pretty much anywhere on it.

P1. We went up the bolt ladder and stepped left and back into a groove with some fun crack climbing in the back, redirected tree belay for the anchor.

p2. the one real money pitch on the route, fun.

p3. After a little rambling intro you clip a bolt and step onto the left wall and continue up a thin crack. I've done this pitch twice now and for some reason have forgotten the beta. We ended up continuing up the corner on fun climbing until under the big roof, then placing a solid piece and traversing/ down climbing a bit to finish back on the original route. turns out this is climbing much of the 3rd pitch of lights in the forest and then traversing left back into pendulum.

p4. apparently this slab goes at thin 5.10 face climbing. We just used the fixed pin to pendulum across the slab to the next belay. The last followers lowered out from the starting bolt anchor.

p5. step left and pull some harder moves to gain some lower angled rock and then step left on to a slab by ramp. Down low there are two pins in the crack. the upper crack has a bashie pin and rurp in it. From the anchor it looks unprotect able. This pitch was dirty and only after some crack excavating while seconding did we find the second, more bomber pin down low. Finishes at a 2 bolt anchor.

p6. Surprisingly fun climbing! crawl and scootch across the ledge until your pushed off, some good jugs show up just in time. Good gear for the traverse. At the end, build an anchor in the crack in the roof and get lower or down climb the slab to a 2 bolt anchor on the side walk belay. As mentioned above, have your second lower or down climb from this anchor, leaving it and the top rope there for the next pitch.

p7. climb up the 5.9 ish slab on top rope, throw some gear farther out in the crack and go for it! Can be pretty easily aided through to keep the adventure at 5.10 A0.

p8. dirty meandering crack climbing takes you to the top and a 3 bolt anchor amongst a sea of cracks and bomber trees (Cathedral ledge, home of the most erratic bolt ethics in North America!)

all in all a good adventure!! Aug 31, 2014
john strand
southern colo
john strand   southern colo
Good point Burlap. The crux roof was originally freed, direct w/o going left and then back. Quite hard, maybe 5.12..going around,then over is easier, but scary Jun 14, 2014
It should def. be noted that when you traverse under the pendulum roof it its easiest to place a nest of gear in the roof or the horizontal crack at the base of the roof at its very end and down climb to the sidewalk ledge. When your second follows you they will leave this gear in place and down climb to you on the side walk ledge, the climbing here is solid 5.9 but the gear is good and essentially you are down climbing 5.9 with a top rope over head. When you start the crux pitch you now have a top rope for the 9 climbing you just down climbed. Jun 12, 2014
charlesg3 Gruenwald
Cambridge, MA
charlesg3 Gruenwald   Cambridge, MA
Pulled a pin on pitch 3 that was manky. Also, replaced the sling on the pendulum. Jul 23, 2012