Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA Surette/Cannon '84, FA- Webster/Ross '76
Page Views: 4,647 total · 42/month
Shared By: stredna on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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Description

Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.

P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'

P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'

P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'

P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'

P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'

P6- Climb out right a bit and up, then trend right a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature. From Tyler Rohr: Some beta on pitch 6: After the lone bolt it was pretty unclear to me where to go. I found a piton up and right in small feature (maybe 10-15 ft)...I ended up moving right maybe 20 feet from the piton through dirty ground and then the rest of the way up (30 or so feet?). A lot of the climbing involved scrapping off lichen before committing to a foot, but eventually, far right, things cleaned up.

Location

Look for bolt ladder right of Highway 61. You can see the former tree-climb laying on the ground adjacent to the start.

Protection

normal rack up to 3".

Photos