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Routes in The Mordor Wall

Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Connection T A3
Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R
Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2
Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Sport, 400 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: FFA Surette/Cannon '84, FA- Webster/Ross '76
Page Views: 3,718 total, 42/month
Shared By: stredna on Sep 7, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

Memorable. 6 great pitches! Pro on the last pitch is R, but should not be an issue if you're climbing 11.

P1-Start at a bolt ladder to the right of Highway 61 (where the old tree climb began) and climb corner to ledge system above. 5.8 - 80'

P2- Undercling right under the overlap to ledge. 10b - 40'

P3- Move up and left via crack into a corner (bolt). Straight up into the chimney feature and then to another great belay ledge! 5.9 - 140'

P4- Up and at 'em! Up the 5.8 handcrack then traverse right under overlap to right edge and bust a move up (assume harder if you have a smaller ape-index) to a bolt above and a friction move to the belay. 11b - 90'

P5-6 May be combined. Move out right from belay to a bolt and to a devious 5.9 move, trend up and left to another bolt (crux) and climb a finicky friction move to easier climbing and the belay bolts. 5.11b - 50'

P6- Climb out right a bit and up, trending left a bit through some lichen, to the trees! 1 bolt protects the pitch. 5.9 - 60' An alternative at the start of p6 may be to traverse right to escape into an obvious feature.

Location

Look for bolt ladder right of Highway 61. You can see the former tree-climb laying on the ground adjacent to the start.

Protection

normal rack up to 3".
Tyler Rohr 2
Cambridge, MA
 
Tyler Rohr 2   Cambridge, MA
 
Good, full value climb! Pretty damn scary up top though.

Pitches 1-4 are all well protected but be prepared for things get spicy after that.

Some beta on pitch 6: After the lone bolt it was pretty unclear to me where to go. I found a piton up and right in small feature (maybe 10-15 ft). After that it was run out to the the top and seemed like a choice between more steep and kinda featured/kinda steep and kind of dirty/less steep and really dirty. I ended up moving right maybe 20 feet from the piton through dirty ground and then the rest of the way up (30 or so feet?). A lot of the climbing involved scrapping off lichen before committing to a foot, but eventually, far right, things cleaned up. Anyway, maybe I'm a wimp, but I thought this was pretty serious and scary. Probably less so if cleaned up a bit though.

Still worth doing! Aug 14, 2017
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
I'm pretty sure the ladder replaces what used to be the tree start.

A really good climb, much overlooked. Sep 5, 2014
chuckdrew
Cape Elizabeth, Maine
  5.11b
chuckdrew   Cape Elizabeth, Maine
  5.11b
Excellent Route! Pitches 2,3, and 4 are some of the best on the cliff.

Pitch 5 and 6 are very heady - both are R rated in my opinion. There are bolts in the hardest sections but falling on the 5.9 climbing in between bolts would have serious consequences.

We aided up the bolt ladder on the first 10 feet of pitch one. Does anyone know what the free grade is? It is dirty but it didn't look like it would be too hard.

Some bolt beta: there is a bolt just after the crux on pitch 4 before you mantle onto the slab. If I had known that bolt was there before going through the crux I would not have wasted so much time trying to place shitty gear and getting pumped. Just clip the pin, motor through the crux, and head for the bolt... It is basically a 6 foot runout from the pin to the bolt.

Sep 5, 2014
FY
Boston, MA
 
FY   Boston, MA
 
did this over the weekend - parts of it I led with a long branch in my mouth because there were so many thick spider webs and I didn't want to get bitten! it's clean now and it's a great route! dry. get on it. Jul 29, 2013
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
This ia an awesome route. Great climbing and varied. Dec 15, 2011
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
The best of the "easier", long 5.11's on Cathedral. Tremendous variety and quality of climbing.
FFA surette/cannon '84
FA- webster/ross '76 Sep 7, 2010