Type: Trad, Aid, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade III
FA: Steve arsenault & joe cote
Page Views: 14,841 total · 71/month
Shared By: Zach Allen on Apr 3, 2007 · Updates
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall

You & This Route

28 Opinions
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Description Suggest change

A beautiful outing on clean, water-streaked granite. Mordor Wall links interesting features up one of the proudest parts of Cathedral. A perfect warmup for clean aid walls in Yosemite, and a worthwhile outing in and of itself. Jim Surette freed some pitches including the first and the roof pitch.

P.1 A bathook move off the ledge takes you to a right angling flake (slightly expando?) and then up to a bolted belay. (C1+)

P. 2 A rising traverse on amazing, streaked granite. Alternate bolts and bathooks on the traverse. (the number of bolts has grown over the years) and then up a thin seam sprouting some fixed heads to a bolt anchor. (C2 F)

P.3 A0 Bolt ladder to a nice 5.9 finger crack (easily aided at A1) takes you to a great sidewalk ledge. (C1)

P. 4 Up off the ledge and awkwardly through the roof with great exposure, clipping a fixed bong at the lip. Incredible position. (awkward C1)

P. 5 Easy aid or 5.9 free up lower angle crack system to a sloping ledge. Occasionally wet/dirty. Scramble off or rap the route.

Location Suggest change

A well marked trail goes straight up to the base, to the right of the Thin Air face.

Protection Suggest change

Double set cams to 3". Extra stoppers and tcus. The route goes clean easily.