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Routes in The Mordor Wall

Armaggedon T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R
Bridge of Khazad-Dûm, The T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Cecile T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Difficulties be Damned T 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Division of Labour T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Free Finale/Mordor Roof link-up T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
French Connection T A3
Grand Finale T 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b C2 R
Highway 61 T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Lights in the Forest T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
MOE T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mines of Moria T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a C2
Mordor Wall, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b C2
Pendulum Route T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Slippery Corner (Apocalypse / Diagonal Variation) T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown A4
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad
FA: Doug Madera 75 ffa Jimmy Surette 85
Page Views: 1,130 total, 10/month
Shared By: john strand on Jun 16, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

I would give this an X but I don't think you would die. . I have no idea how Doug hooked through the start in 75' and Jim's brilliant ffa was stunning.
Perfect stone, almost no gear and hard moves.

Move up past several bolts to a stance at the mini flake, gear up and go for it. The crux isn't TOO far up , but a fall from just below the ledge would be bad

Location

Start up Diagonal to bolted belay. work up and left past a couple of bolts to the mini flake on a bulge.

Protection

A few bolts at the start then gear up the mini-flake and go for broke above to a good ledge.

Photos

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john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Still an awesome bit of hooking ! I made seven visits to get this one! JUST BRILLIANT ! Aug 3, 2008
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Held Doug's many whippers on the first ascent which was taken from his final hook move before compleating the crux pitch. Jul 30, 2008