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Knappweed Herbicide (Part II)
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 1.9 from 7
votes
Early Access
Routes in Easter Rock
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5.14+ Project S 5.14+ 9a 35 XI 35 E10 7b |
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Barbarian Herbicide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dynamic Duel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Furthermore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Joker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knappweed Herbicide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knappweed Herbicide (Part II) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sad Batman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9937, -105.41847 |
| FA: | Mark Rolofson & Scott Reynolds, September 2, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,359 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Rolofson on Jun 9, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor closures for 2026 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, East Blob, Security Risk - open. Eagle Rock, Vampire, Black Widow Slab - closed.
Details
Per *Items added 12/30 Closet clean out. Apparel, approach shoe's, (BD, prana, scarpa, REI): Blob, Bitty, and Security Risk have been reopened on 4/21/26.
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
The USFS closed Blob, E Blob, Security, Bitty, Vampire, and Black Widow through 7/31/26.
5/19/25 Eagle Rock opened. 3/14/25: Bitty Buttress, Blob, & SR reopened.
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptors.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual closures in Boulder Canyon as of 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures: Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers re: giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20: following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec….
Description
Start with Knappweed Herbicide (.10b), & clip the right anchor bolt for protection. Continue in the same pitch over three small roofs to an anchor with chains & carabiners. This climb involves some powerful & continuous climbing. Here's a more detailed description of the moves: undercling the rounded belly of the first roof, & reach a hold above it. Do a one arm pull to a slot underneath the second roof. Pull up, get your feet on small footholds at the lip of the first roof, & reach over the second roof to crimps. This is the end of the first crux. It helps to be tall on this section. Shorter climbers get shut down.
Now for the second crux- reach the sloping horizontal break below the third roof, & get over the second roof. Reach jugs in a horizontal break just above the third roof. Originally the second crux was harder, but after Surrounded By Reality was established, a nice hold out left was exposed that makes a great heel hook for the left foot. Finish up .12a moves to reach a shelf just above the anchor.
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