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Trustafarian Panhandler
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.4 from 5
votes
Routes in Easter Rock
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Barbarian Herbicide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dynamic Duel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Furthermore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Joker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knappweed Herbicide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knappweed Herbicide (Part II) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sad Batman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 39.9937, -105.41847 |
| FA: | Tod Anderson - 2003. |
| Page Views: | 3,142 total · 27/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Rolofson on Sep 27, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Security Risk reopened. Eagle Rock opened 5/19/25.
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock is closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This route ascends the large (15-20 foot) roof on the east face. This route is part of an old Kyle Copeland aid line called "Cat On A Hot Tin Roof". The aid line ascended what is now "Surrounded By Reality" to under the roof then moved left to ascend the roof via a crack. Over the lip, the aid line went left of the free route "Trustafarian Panhandler" up easier, dirtier climbing to a fixed pin, then back right on the sloping ledge.
Tod Anderson placed most of the bolts in 2002. I returned with him in 2003 to put in the starting anchor & the 2nd-4th bolts. In 2016, I replaced the original bolts that had coldshut hangers, with Stainless 1/2" diameter Powers bolts & Fixe hangers.
Trustafarian Panhandler has a separate start & finish from the original aid line. The climb begins on a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 35 feet above the approach trail ledge. There are two ways to get here. I prefer climbing the first 3 bolts of "Surrounded By Reality" (5.9) to the ledge then move up left to the anchor. It is also possible to climb to the 2nd bolt on "Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalists" & traverse right to the anchor. This is easier & dirtier. Beware of a loose block at the start. I have scrambled up this unroped, but I don't advise it.
From the belay ledge, this route provides a good warm-up to the roof. Begin by angling left to 2nd bolt in a tiny roof. At 3rd bolt above the roof, going straight up would be extremely difficult. It is possible to move a few feet left, use a rounded undercling to reach a ledge & hand traverse back right above the tiny roof (.10d). Pull onto the ledge. This section can be entirely avoided to climbing left up "CAE" & traversing back right on the ledge (5.2). From the 5th bolt, climb over a small bulge to jugs (.10d). Follow jugs up right to a great rest under the large roof. Follow a horizontal crack along a tiny corner out the roof's first tier to hand jams. Dyno up right to a small edge, & find a jug on a horizontal break. Clip the bolt over the lip. There are two choices at the lip. A: climb directly over the lip via a poor, thin hand jam. This felt quite hard. B: we followed a hand crack under the lip of the roof, left for 6 feet to reach a horizontal crack above the lip. Pull over the roof & traverse back right, past last bolt, to reach a vertical crack slot. Pull onto the low angle slab. The slab feels very insecure at first, but it's not that hard. Run it out up the slab to a ledge & the anchor. I recommend taping your hands for the jams. You'll be glad you did. The redpoint crux is at the last bolt.
Location
It is located between Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalists & Surrounded By Reality. Start from a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor 35 feet above the approach trail ledge.
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