Avg: 3.3 from 4 votes
|Type:||Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Tod Anderson - 2003.|
|Page Views:||2,178 total · 37/month|
|Shared By:||Mark Rolofson on Sep 27, 2016|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
Per Katherine Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a five month closure to protect nesting golden eagles, the Roosevelt National Forest has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in Boulder Canyon.
“The Boulder Canyon eagles successfully raised one strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha with the USDA Forest Service. “Two chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only one survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Post-fledging visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the second chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nesting site. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk in Boulder Canyon. These areas are located along Colorado Highway 119, approximately 1.5 miles east of Boulder Falls.
Effective through July 31, 2020, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral and Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec…
(click on Boulder Canyon for more info).
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, Forest Service.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, email@example.com, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the Boulder Climbing Community and the Access Fund to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giviSee - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk will close Feb. 1 until July 31 for raptor nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened or lengthened.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Tod Anderson placed most of the bolts in 2002. I returned with him in 2003 to put in the starting anchor & the 2nd-4th bolts. In 2016, I replaced the original bolts that had coldshut hangers, with Stainless 1/2" diameter Powers bolts & Fixe hangers.
Trustafarian Panhandler has a separate start & finish from the original aid line. The climb begins on a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 35 feet above the approach trail ledge. There are two ways to get here. I prefer climbing the first 3 bolts of "Surrounded By Reality" (5.9) to the ledge then move up left to the anchor. It is also possible to climb to the 2nd bolt on "Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalists" & traverse right to the anchor. This is easier & dirtier. Beware of a loose block at the start. I have scrambled up this unroped, but I don't advise it.
From the belay ledge, this route provides a good warm-up to the roof. Begin by angling left to 2nd bolt in a tiny roof. At 3rd bolt above the roof, going straight up would be extremely difficult. It is possible to move a few feet left, use a rounded undercling to reach a ledge & hand traverse back right above the tiny roof (.10d). Pull onto the ledge. This section can be entirely avoided to climbing left up "CAE" & traversing back right on the ledge (5.2). From the 5th bolt, climb over a small bulge to jugs (.10d). Follow jugs up right to a great rest under the large roof. Follow a horizontal crack along a tiny corner out the roof's first tier to hand jams. Dyno up right to a small edge, & find a jug on a horizontal break. Clip the bolt over the lip. There are two choices at the lip. A: climb directly over the lip via a poor, thin hand jam. This felt quite hard. B: we followed a hand crack under the lip of the roof, left for 6 feet to reach a horizontal crack above the lip. Pull over the roof & traverse back right, past last bolt, to reach a vertical crack slot. Pull onto the low angle slab. The slab feels very insecure at first, but it's not that hard. Run it out up the slab to a ledge & the anchor. I recommend taping your hands for the jams. You'll be glad you did. The redpoint crux is at the last bolt.