Type: Sport, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: Tod Anderson - 2003.
Page Views: 2,178 total · 37/month
Shared By: Mark Rolofson on Sep 27, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2021 Update - reopening Details

Description

This route ascends the large (15-20 foot) roof on the east face. This route is part of an old Kyle Copeland aid line called "Cat On A Hot Tin Roof". The aid line ascended what is now "Surrounded By Reality" to under the roof then moved left to ascend the roof via a crack. Over the lip, the aid line went left of the free route "Trustafarian Panhandler" up easier, dirtier climbing to a fixed pin, then back right on the sloping ledge.

Tod Anderson placed most of the bolts in 2002. I returned with him in 2003 to put in the starting anchor & the 2nd-4th bolts. In 2016, I replaced the original bolts that had coldshut hangers, with Stainless 1/2" diameter Powers bolts & Fixe hangers.

Trustafarian Panhandler has a separate start & finish from the original aid line. The climb begins on a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor, 35 feet above the approach trail ledge. There are two ways to get here. I prefer climbing the first 3 bolts of "Surrounded By Reality" (5.9) to the ledge then move up left to the anchor. It is also possible to climb to the 2nd bolt on "Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalists" & traverse right to the anchor. This is easier & dirtier. Beware of a loose block at the start. I have scrambled up this unroped, but I don't advise it.

From the belay ledge, this route provides a good warm-up to the roof. Begin by angling left to 2nd bolt in a tiny roof. At 3rd bolt above the roof, going straight up would be extremely difficult. It is possible to move a few feet left, use a rounded undercling to reach a ledge & hand traverse back right above the tiny roof (.10d). Pull onto the ledge. This section can be entirely avoided to climbing left up "CAE" & traversing back right on the ledge (5.2). From the 5th bolt, climb over a small bulge to jugs (.10d). Follow jugs up right to a great rest under the large roof. Follow a horizontal crack along a tiny corner out the roof's first tier to hand jams. Dyno up right to a small edge, & find a jug on a horizontal break. Clip the bolt over the lip. There are two choices at the lip. A: climb directly over the lip via a poor, thin hand jam. This felt quite hard. B: we followed a hand crack under the lip of the roof, left for 6 feet to reach a horizontal crack above the lip. Pull over the roof & traverse back right, past last bolt, to reach a vertical crack slot. Pull onto the low angle slab. The slab feels very insecure at first, but it's not that hard. Run it out up the slab to a ledge & the anchor. I recommend taping your hands for the jams. You'll be glad you did. The redpoint crux is at the last bolt.

Location

It is located between Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalists & Surrounded By Reality. Start from a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor 35 feet above the approach trail ledge.

Protection

12 bolts / 2 Fixe rings.

Photos

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