Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Easter Rock

Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dynamic Duel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Joker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knappweed Herbacide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Nelson & Mark Rolofson, 9/16/2000
Page Views: 1,090 total, 10/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


20 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the second to last route on the far right (uphill) on the N Face.

P1. Climb past a bouldery 5.11 start followed by a juggy 10- corner. 6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor at a slabby ledge.

P2. Move up left through a bulge and the 11c/d crux, there is a good rest before the remaining 5.11 to the top. 8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

I managed to lead this as one pitch but had a lot of rope drag at the top. 70m rope required to lower to the ground.

Protection

Sport route with bolts.

Photos

- No Photos -
Mark Rolofson
  5.11d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11d
Certainly, a memorable route & one I have repeated several times since Alan & I made the first ascent on September 16, 2000. We originally rated it 5.12a, but I think it isn't quite that hard, & I call 5.11d. The moves past the 2nd & 3rd bolt on pitch 2 are the crux, but the redpoint crux is the finish. Lots of 5.11 climbing on pitch 2. I find it slightly more difficult than Elanor (which I have pretty wired). I would say they are the same grade.

The moves at the start of pitch 1 have always felt like solid 5.11 & involve some awkward stemming. The first 2 bolts are close, & I don't remember thinking the clip to the 2nd bolt was a big deal.

As for combining the two pitches into one, it isn't something I've ever done. The sloping ledge atop pitch 1 is a great rest. It is nice to have good communication with your partner on the 2nd pitch, so I would recommend doing the climb in two pitches. Jul 23, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
michalm   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
I saw the bottom boulder problem done three different ways. The way I did it involved stemming, creative footwork, small crimps, and went no harder than V2. It was easy enough to clip the bolts. Overall, a really good route when the pitches are combined and a good second warm-up after Road to Emmaus. Use extended alpine draws or long runners on some of the bolts when linking up P1 & P2. Plenty of rope left with a 70. A 60 might just make it to the ground. Jul 23, 2014
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  5.11c
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  5.11c
I felt the bottom was V2/3. Not a great warmup as the crux is off the ground. Sep 6, 2013
Jon Zucco
Denver, CO
 
Jon Zucco   Denver, CO
 
I really don't think the start is any harder than .11a/b. It's just really f*cking awkward working through those first two bolts. I would recommend stick-clipping them; if you blew either of them, it could make for a pretty bad day. Jun 12, 2013
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
 
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
 
No warm up, and I still thought the lower boulder problem was no harder than 5.11, but I'm a strong crimper. Jul 14, 2012
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
2.5 stars. The boulder problem start is much harder than anything on the 2nd pitch, definitely harder than 5.11. 2nd pitch is quite good, but expect rope drag if using standard length draws. There is one bolt that is too far to the left around a sharp arete that really adds to the rope drag. Aug 22, 2008