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Routes in Easter Rock

Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dynamic Duel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Joker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knappweed Herbacide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nelson, Rolofson, 2000
Page Views: 1,973 total, 17/month
Shared By: Chris Beh on Aug 10, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This is the last route at the top of the hill. The second pitch climbs through the attractive, green double roof high on the wall.

P1. Climb over the low roof, 11a/b, and then up the wall above with another 10+ move. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

P2. Move up the right hand line of bolts, above the belay. The first roof is the crux, 11a/b, with a big reach to a jug, get a shake above with more fun moves climbing up and right through a 2nd roof, 10+, finishes with 30 feet of fun, exposed 9+. 8 bolts to the lowering anchor.

Protection

P1 - 7 bolts. P2 - 8 bolts.

Photos

Mark Rolofson
  5.11
Mark Rolofson  
  5.11
It has probably been over a decade since I last did this climb, but I did it a couple times at least. Alan wasn't trying to contrive a "bouldery, lip encounter" problem on pitch 2. I do remember using a big undercling on the right. As for the rating, I don't have a strong opinion, except to say I don't think it is only .11a. I was climbing quite strong in 2000 & climbing a lot. 4 times a week & sometimes 10 pitches of 5.11a to 5.13a in a day. Jul 23, 2017
Pablo Bles
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Pablo Bles   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Both pitches can be linked into one super pitch, which I think goes as 11b, but use long draws or even some runners, or the rope drag at the top will be really bad. Jul 17, 2014
SteveZ
Denver, CO
 
SteveZ   Denver, CO
 
For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back. Oct 14, 2012
Chris Archer
  5.11b
Chris Archer  
  5.11b
There was a chain on the first bolt for several years that eliminated the unneccesarily dangerous moves to the first bolt. Someone swiped it. Bring a stick clip, replacement chain or health insurance. Jul 21, 2012
Chris Archer
  5.11b
Chris Archer  
  5.11b
Terrific climbing, but don't blow it getting to the first bolt. Jul 28, 2010
Brian Adzima
San Francisco
Brian Adzima   San Francisco
A 60m gets you to the ground with plenty to spare. Sep 10, 2009
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
  5.11a
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
  5.11a
I agree with Chris -- 2nd pitch is easy 11 and using the undercling/sidepull follows the line naturally. 2nd pitch is one of the best jug hauls in Boulder Canyon at the grade. The fun factor is very high on this one. Probably the best "easy" route at Easter Rock. Aug 22, 2008
Mark rates the 2nd pitch of this route 11d in his guide. It looks like from the way they bolted it they were contriving a bouldery, lip encounter on the first roof. I used a big undercling on the right and it feels like easy 11, much easier than, say, Crash Test Blonde at Security Risk...but very, very fun.

The 1st pitch of New Test of Men can be linked with the 2nd pitch of this route as one pitch. Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. A 70M rope will lower to the ground from the top. I think a 60M might work for the lower, too, but I haven't tried it. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag. Take 16 draws. Aug 10, 2008