Type: Sport
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 333 total · 2/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb the thin crack (painful) to better holds on the right. Finsh with a stout mantel onto a sloping shelf and traverse left to finish up the Joker. If the boulder problem goes easily, so will the route.

Protection

5 bolts + anchors.

Photos

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Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
For a more difficult time, avoid all holds in the corner to the right, including the obvious resting hold before the mantel. Definitely 13a and a sure sign of too much time climbing at Easter Aug 5, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
This route has definitely changed with the big flake coming off. There is a flat to sloping shelf above the sloping ledge and very little above of much use except a sloper high on the left. This presents a new crux and could make it more like 13a. Jun 5, 2018
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
When I established this route in July 1995, I redpointed it on my 2nd day. I succeeded on it much quicker than either Flying Beast or Nevermore. I had already established The Penguin, so I had its .12c crux wired. Returning years later in the early 2000s, I really got spanked trying to repeat it. Unlike Flying Beast, Nevermore or Knappweed Herbicide (Part II), I didn't repeat The Catwoman & keep it wired. I originally rated it .13a. It's a powerful bouldery start leading to the obnoxious crux of The Penguin. Good conditions are key. Jan 7, 2019