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Routes in Easter Rock

Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dynamic Duel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Joker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knappweed Herbacide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 2,907 total · 15/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Jun 19, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb the bottom of Elanor up left into two dynamic moves to its own chain anchors. The second dynamic move is the crux off of right-leaning slopers and tiny crystaline feet to a jug high and left. This is certainly one of the finer routes around which will shut down many comers due to the very cruxy nature of the climb. Good luck and have fun.

Protection

8 bolts to chains.

Photos

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Another good option is to climb the crux of Telltale Heart, move right above the roof, and hook up with Evermore. This link up is more sustained and flows like honey on hot cakes. Try and suppress the urge to lunge at the crux. Simply jack your right foot up to a good foothold and go all the way with your right hand. The left hand hold is bad (sloper) but body position make the move possible! Jun 26, 2002
The variation is called Nevermore and is rated 5.13.a. Starting on Tell Tale Heart would certainly add nicely to the pump factor. Jun 27, 2002
Chris Archer
  5.12d
Chris Archer  
  5.12d
Great extension to Elanor. The no hands rest on Elanor makes this significantly less pumpy than Nevermore. Still requires creativity for the devious crux. 8 bolts. Sep 6, 2004
ac
ac  
Any beta for the crux moves? From the slopey rail, it seems like a monsterous move to a jug. Any trickery here? The crux is difficult to work, since you end up taking repeated sizeable whippers while trying things out. Jun 6, 2005
?????  
I think there are two ways to toss up to the jug...one uses a sharp R hand with a devious L foot higher than you want, the key is to keep the L foot on long enough to toss/stand up with you L hand to latch the jug.

I think the other way involves going up with you R hand with lower, more even feet...better if you are taller. Jun 7, 2005
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Okay...so left hand on good sloper...right hand on sharp crimp up high! From there, get your right foot up to a small chip and left foot high heel hook...you rock off the heel, and it's not that big of a throw to the jug! Enjoy! :) Jul 9, 2014
Patrick Vernon
Estes Park, CO
Patrick Vernon   Estes Park, CO
Or you guys could use the obvious finger lock, no dyno required! Jul 9, 2014
Jack Sparrow
denver, co
  5.12d
Jack Sparrow   denver, co
  5.12d
Ha, that's funny Patrick. You're the only other person I 've heard uses that beta other than myself and I've seen lots of people on the finish. That finger lock becomes extra good with the perfect amount of tape on the ring finger you could almost shake out on it. Stellar climb anyway you do it. Jul 13, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
A contrived problem of what is on and off. Grades easier than Nevermore...I think this route is in the 12b range, maybe 12c! Basically no pump going into the crux and then a much easier way to get into it with basically a V4 move to the jug! Feb 22, 2015
Mark Rolofson
  5.12d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12d
This was the third sport route established at the crag in May 1995. I don't know how you can call it contrived or .12b/c. The final crux is the same as Nevermore, but getting to the last bolt presents an interesting dyno as well. After clipping 7th bolt, I make a big dyno with my right hand to the good hold to clip last bolt from. Yes, you could avoid this dyno by traversing more left & doing this section the same way as Nevermore (.12a), but it feels run out enough I have always done the dyno. Cool move.
The problem with rating it .12b/c, or even .12c, is this climb is at least two letter grades harder than Tell Tale Heart. I noticed that you are rating Tell Tale Heart (.12b), Train 4 Life. To say this is only half a letter grade harder is absurd. I originally rated Tell Tale Heart .12a, but after watching many climbers slightly shorter than me struggle, I decided it should be rated .12b & thus it was first guidebooked at that grade in 1996. So if you rate Tell Tale Heart (.12a/b), you could rate could rate Evermore (.12c/d). There are 8 bolts total. Jun 12, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12b/c
I personally disagree. I have done both routes Nevermore and Evermore and believe that this is not very hard and gives you no pump. You also skip part of the crux, the traverse section. Then you do basically two moves of crux. It felt pretty easy and went 2nd go. I think it is definitely more in the 12b/c range and would say that Ten Digit Dialing is harder than this route, but I'm just climbing to have fun, and it was a fun route...I'm just giving an opinion. Feb 14, 2017
Mark Rolofson
  5.12d
Mark Rolofson  
  5.12d
Regardless of how you do the climbing getting to the last the last bolt, there are still two sections of 5.12 moves in a row - at the 7th bolt & the crux at the 8th (last) bolt. Traversing left out of the rest on Eleanor to reach the 7th bolt isn't hard. Jul 23, 2017

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