Elevation: 7,600 ft
GPS: 39.994, -105.418 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 83,838 total · 349/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000 with 3 Suggestions
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / 2020 Update Details

Description

This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain. This is confirmed with the exception of the leftmost routes and the upper pitches of the rightmost routes.

Beware of the loose rock if you venture onto the daring East Face route. You may rain down boulders on the approach trail!

FWIW, dogs have been known to make it up the trail to the rock.

There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.

L->R:

A. East Face?, 9, 2p, bolts & gear.
B. Chickenshift Armchair Environmentalists, 12+, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Trustafarian Panhandler, 12 or 12+, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
D. Surrounded by Reality, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Knapweed Herbicide aka Warm Up, 10+, 1p, bolts.
above E. Knappweed Herbicide (Part II), 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
F. Barbarians, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Empire of the Fenceless, 12-, 1p, bolts.
H1. Tell-Tale Heart, 12, 1p, bolts.
H2. Nevermore, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
I1. Evermore, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
I2. Elanor, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J1I1/H2. Furthermore, 12+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.
J1I2. Sad Batman, 12-, 1p, 65', gear & bolts.
J2. Thunderdome, 12-, 1p, gear.
KI1. Dark Knight, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Riddler, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. The Joker, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
LK. Mr. Two-Face, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Catwoman, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Penguin, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Willard, 11, 1p, bolts.
P. White Men Can't Jump, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Dynamic Duel, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Unknown, ?
S. Pterodactyl Traverse, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
T. The Flying Beast, 12+, 1p, bolts.
U. Rain Shadow, 12, 1p, 45', gear.
V1. Wagging the Nub?, 11+ - 2 pitches, 1p, bolts & gear.
V2. Egg, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.
W. New Test of Men, 11+, 2p, 100+', bolts.
X. Road to Emmaus, 11-, 2p, 100', bolts.
Y. ?, ?.

Getting There

This crag is easier to spy going uphill than downhill. It lies close to the road, about 8.9 miles from Elephant Buttresses. Parking below the cliff can be limited. At times, this short trail feels like bush-whacking, depending on the time of the year. Hike 3-5 minutes. Expect 3rd to 4th class terrain to get there. This is not kid friendly.

Guidebooks

Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

30 Total Climbs

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Location: Easter Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Easter Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 78
Road To Emmaus
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 39
New Road
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 89
The Joker
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 62
The Riddler
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 27
New Test Of Men
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 202
Elanor
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 25
Dark Knight
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 81
Thunderdome
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 355
Empire of the Fenceless
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 212
Tell-Tale Heart
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 33
Barbarians
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Trustafarian Panhandler
Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 79
The Flying Beast
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 40
Evermore
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 94
Nevermore
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Road To Emmaus
 78
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
New Road
 39
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Joker
 89
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Riddler
 62
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
New Test Of Men
 27
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Elanor
 202
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Dark Knight
 25
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderdome
 81
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Empire of the Fenceless
 355
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tell-Tale Heart
 212
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Barbarians
 33
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Trustafarian Panhandler
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
The Flying Beast
 79
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Evermore
 40
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nevermore
 94
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
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