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Elevation: 7,600 ft 2,316 m
GPS: 39.9937, -105.41847
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 117,146 total · 411/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain. This is confirmed with the exception of the leftmost routes and the upper pitches of the rightmost routes.

Beware of the loose rock if you venture onto the daring East Face route. You may rain down boulders on the approach trail!

FWIW, dogs have been known to make it up the trail to the rock.

There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.

L->R:

A. East Face?, 9, 2p, bolts & gear.

B. Chickenshift Armchair Environmentalists, 12+, 1p, 110', bolts.

C. Trustafarian Panhandler, 12 or 12+, 1-2p, 100', bolts.

D. Surrounded by Reality, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.

E. Knapweed Herbicide aka Warm Up, 10+, 1p, bolts.

above E. Knappweed Herbicide (Part II), 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.

EF. Barbarian Herbicide, 10, 1p, 45', bolts.

F. Barbarians, 12, 1p, bolts.

G. Empire of the Fenceless, 12-, 1p, bolts.

H1. Tell-Tale Heart, 12, 1p, bolts.

H2. Nevermore, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.

I1. Evermore, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.

I2. Elanor, 11+, 1p, bolts.

J1I1/H2. Furthermore, 12+, 1p, 80', gear & bolts.

J1I2. Sad Batman, 12-, 1p, 65', gear & bolts.

J2. Thunderdome, 12-, 1p, gear.

KI1. Dark Knight, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.

K. The Riddler, 11, 1p, bolts.

L. The Joker, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.

LK. Mr. Two-Face, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.

M. Catwoman, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.

N. Penguin, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.

O. Willard, 11, 1p, bolts.

P. White Men Can't Jump, 11+, 1p, bolts.

Q. Dynamic Duel, 13, 1p, bolts.

R. Unknown, ?

S. Pterodactyl Traverse, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.

T. The Flying Beast, 12+, 1p, bolts.

U. Rain Shadow, 12, 1p, 45', gear.

V1. Wagging the Nub?, 11+ - 2 pitches, 1p, bolts & gear.

V2. Egg, 12, 1p, 45', bolts.

W. New Test of Men, 11+, 2p, 100+', bolts.

X. Road to Emmaus, 11-, 2p, 100', bolts.

Y. ?, ?.

Getting There Suggest change

This crag is easier to spy going uphill than downhill. It lies close to the road, about 8.9 miles from Elephant Buttresses. Parking below the cliff can be limited. At times, this short trail feels like bush-whacking, depending on the time of the year. Hike 3-5 minutes. Expect 3rd to 4th class terrain to get there. This is not kid friendly.

Guidebooks

Suggest change
Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

32 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Easter Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Easter Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 102
Road To Emmaus
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 50
New Road
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 91
The Riddler
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Mr. Two-Face
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 253
Elanor
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 102
Thunderdome
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 460
Empire of the Fenceless
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 269
Tell-Tale Heart
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 44
Barbarians
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Sad Batman
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 5
Trustafarian Panhandler
Sport 2 pitches
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Egg
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 103
The Flying Beast
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 48
Evermore
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 121
Nevermore
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Road To Emmaus
 102
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
New Road
 50
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Riddler
 91
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Mr. Two-Face
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Elanor
 253
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderdome
 102
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Empire of the Fenceless
 460
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tell-Tale Heart
 269
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Barbarians
 44
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sad Batman
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Trustafarian Panhandler
 5
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Egg
 6
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Flying Beast
 103
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Evermore
 48
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nevermore
 121
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Easter Rock »

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