Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

This is a crag with a bunch of advanced sport climbs that winds up staying fairly shady for much of the day. It has vertical to slightly-overhanging terrain that generally emphasizes power over technique. There are about 28 climbs here on its east & north faces. The aesthetic Empire of the Fenceless certainly draws the eye. Some routes require gear. Apparently, the word is that this crag can stay dry in some rain. This is confirmed with the exception of the leftmost routes and the upper pitches of the rightmost routes.

Beware of the loose rock if you venture onto the daring East Face route. You may rain down boulders on the approach trail!

FWIW, dogs have been known to make it up the trail to the rock.

There is other rock in the area just downhill, but it is less intriguing.

L->R:

A. East Face?, 9, 2p, bolts & gear.
B. Chickenshift Armchair Environmentalists, 12+, 1p, 110', bolts.
C. Trustafarian Panhandler, 12 or 12+, 1-2p, 100', bolts.
D. Surrounded by Reality, 12, 1p, 100', bolts.
E. Knapweed Herbicide aka Warm Up, 10+ or 13-, 1 or 2p, bolts.
F. Barbarians, 12, 1p, bolts.
G. Empire of the Fenceless, 12-, 1p, bolts.
H1. Tell-Tale Heart, 12, 1p, bolts.
H2. Nevermore, 13-, 1p, 50', bolts.
I1. Evermore, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
I2. Elanor, 11+, 1p, bolts.
J. Thunderdome, 12-, 1p, gear.
KI1. Dark Knight, 11+, 1p, 50', bolts.
K. The Riddler, 11, 1p, bolts.
L. The Joker, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
LK. Mr. Two-Face, 11, 1p, 60', bolts.
M. Catwoman, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
N. Penguin, 12, 1p, 50', bolts.
O. Willard, 11, 1p, bolts.
P. White Men Can't Jump, 11+, 1p, bolts.
Q. Dynamic Duel, 13, 1p, bolts.
R. Unknown, ?
S. Pterodactyl Traverse, 12+, 1p, 50', bolts.
T. The Flying Beast, 12+, 1p, bolts.
U. Rain Shadow?, 12, 1p, gear.
V. Wagging the Nub?, 11+ - 2 pitches, 1p, bolts & gear.
W. Unknown, ?, 1p, bolts.
X. New Test of Men, 11+, 2p, 100+', bolts.
Y. Road to Emmaus, 11-, 2p, 100', bolts.
Z. ?, ?.

Getting There

This crag is easier to spy going uphill than downhill. It lies close to the road, about 8.9 miles from Elephant Buttresses. Parking below the cliff can be limited. At times, this short trail feels like bush-whacking, depending on the time of the year. Hike 3-5 minutes. Expect 3rd to 4th class terrain to get there. This is not kid friendly.

Guidebooks

Mark Rolofson has an excellent Boulder Canyon Sport & Adventure Climber's Guide, Volume II, The Upper Canyon. Consider it for more details.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: Easter Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Easter Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 57
Road To Emmaus
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 22
New Road
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 79
The Joker
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 51
The Riddler
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 23
New Test Of Men
Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 174
Elanor
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 25
Dark Knight
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 67
Thunderdome
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 304
Empire of the Fenceless
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 176
Tell-Tale Heart
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 25
Barbarians
Sport
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 3
Trustafarian Panhandler
Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 67
The Flying Beast
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 30
Evermore
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 83
Nevermore
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Road To Emmaus
 57
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
New Road
 22
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
The Joker
 79
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Riddler
 51
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
New Test Of Men
 23
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Elanor
 174
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Dark Knight
 25
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Thunderdome
 67
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Empire of the Fenceless
 304
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Tell-Tale Heart
 176
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Barbarians
 25
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Trustafarian Panhandler
 3
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
The Flying Beast
 67
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Evermore
 30
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Nevermore
 83
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Easter Rock »

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I don't think this was climbed on much by "the hard men" before it was bolted. One of the best routes here is Elanor but it has several bolts where it's easier to place #1 Camalots. Route-squeezing has given this place a trashy feel. Aug 27, 2001
I heard that Derek Hersey did a route on here that was retro-bolted, without his permission of course. That's really lame. Sep 5, 2001
Don't know about the various controversies here, but I will add that this crag has fun, thought-provoking routes with interesting sequences...that stay dry in the rain! Jul 25, 2002
ac
ac  
Can someone identify the several routes not in the guidebook to the left of Knappweed Herbacide (the 5.10 warm-up)? I see that "Chickenshit" and "Surrounded" are in the database, but I see at least 4 lines to the left of Knappweed. Jul 12, 2005
There are three routes that I was aware of, Chickenshit, etc (takes the left side of the roof with kind of a shoulder wrenching move), Trustafarian Panhandler (up the center of the roof, rails to a burly lip move), and Surrounded by Reality (more to the right with the crux actually lower about half way to the roof). There is, or was more room for routes in this area, including second pitches as well. Jul 13, 2005
Aimee Rose
Bend, or
Aimee Rose   Bend, or
Is the trail difficult? Would it be doable for a 4 year old? Thanks. Apr 27, 2011
Adam Brink
on the road
Adam Brink   on the road
Unless you have someone with a young child constantly there is plenty of potential for a child to get hurt at this crag (loose trail, drop offs and so on). Apr 28, 2011
slim    
Ditto what Adam said. The trail up has an exposed 3rd/4th class section, and the base of the routes is generally exposed, sloped, and loose. I wouldn't recommend it for a 4 year old. Apr 28, 2011
This crag has some great routes, but it can get really cold. I went yesterday with some friends, and although it was nearly 70 degrees in Boulder, it was freezing at the crag. We climbed The Riddler and had to keep stopping to warm the sensation back into our fingertips. I would recommend this crag for a scorchingly hot day. May 25, 2012
Does anyone have any information about the two new routes left of New Test of Men? Jul 2, 2012
Train4life
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience. Jun 11, 2014
Mike Lawson
Boulder, Colorado
Mike Lawson   Boulder, Colorado
Found a jacket at the crag tonight. Let me know the size, color, and brand, and it's yours. Jun 24, 2014
OliH  
PM'd. Jun 28, 2014
Richard Border
Boulder, CO
Richard Border   Boulder, CO
Found two pair shoes and blue ll-bean jacket. Get in touch! Jun 11, 2015
This year is the 20th anniversary of most sport routes at this crag, including the first ones I established in May 1995. These were Tell Tale Heart, Elanor, & Evermore. Beginning with my early guidebooks to the crag, I made some strong recommendations. First, the ledge approach is serious. Bringing young children or dogs warrants real caution. Put a harness on the dog & the kids. Better yet, go somewhere else. I have climbed much less at this crag, since I have had a dog. There are plenty of other dog & kid friendly crags. There isn't much room for the dog or kids to roam around here on the big, sloping terrace. Some dogs love to dig up stuff including around logs for terracing & into bat shit.
Next, don't drop anything like rocks or your rope bag off the ledge. They will roll at high speed downhill crossing the approach trail. I have seen a rope bag roll from the base of The Joker to the edge of the tree near the parking.
It can be a real zoo here & getting back & forth on the ledge below some of the routes is crowded.
Lastly, pay attention belaying. It is too easy to get distracted belaying, especially here. Jun 30, 2015
Kate K  
A group left their guidebook here yesterday - April 19th. It was getting dark when we headed out, they must have not seen it. Message me with the name on the "this belongs to:" line in the front page, and I'll get it back to you! Apr 20, 2017
Erik N
Boulder, CO
Erik N   Boulder, CO
CAUTION: the dead tree leaning against Willard is hanging on by dead roots and a small bit of friction. If it falls, it could collide with anything or anyone from Willard to Empire of the Fenceless. Aug 25, 2018