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Routes in Easter Rock

Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dynamic Duel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Joker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knappweed Herbacide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 8,935 total, 43/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

This route begins just right of arete, at the obvious crack system. Climb up the fun crack to a nice rest, then continue up and right into the dihedral. The crux of this route involves climbing up into and over the bulge to jugs. There seem to be a couple different ways of approaching this section, so fight off the pump and enjoy yourself on this solid climb.

Protection

Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.
This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag. Jul 1, 2015
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience. Jun 11, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12b
Classic route in my opinion though a bit polished. I think that's to be expected though in Boulder Canyon. The crux moves are pretty devious if you end up getting suckered into moving too high into the corner under the roof. Also a note on the anchor - there are not cold shuts, only chains at the top of this route currently. 8 bolts, plus two for the anchor.

The moves at the top are a bit... peculiar. My partner and I both went straight up, not right, by using a bit of dynamic force. There are some holds there to use. Jun 25, 2013
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Okay, I take back my comment I put up a year ago about this route not being four stars. It's definitely fun, and the most exciting finish going right on Nevermore makes it even better.... Get after it.... Jul 10, 2012
Eric Carlos
Chattanooga, TN
  5.12b
Eric Carlos   Chattanooga, TN
  5.12b
Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine. May 22, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Great Route, although I wouldn't give it four stars. It was a bit polished and fairly juggy with the exception of the crux section. It's a hard onsight too without having any beta, the heavily chalked holds split at the crux and can be a bit deceptive. Super fun though.... I don't think you can compare to Discipline, The Shaft, or Joy Ride which are all true 4 star 12b's in the area. Get on them if you haven't!!!! Jul 2, 2011
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this? May 31, 2011
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
 
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
 
Hey, left my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you have it, please call me 303-359-6831.

mountainproject.com/v/lost-… May 28, 2011
Aeon Aki    
 
"Overhung, powerful, and sustained." Aug 1, 2007
Jason Price
  5.12a
Jason Price  
  5.12a
Great route. Benchmark 12a. May 15, 2007
Tricky and powerful. Made me feel like a weakling. So good! Jul 4, 2006
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you. May 10, 2004
TBD
TBD  
Tricky and powerful crux. Very fun moves. Jul 13, 2003
Joe Collins
  5.12b
Joe Collins  
  5.12b
One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip.

hard 12b. Jun 4, 2003
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup... Jan 1, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
  5.12b
Re: Pete Franzen's comment.

I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out. Jan 1, 2001