Type: Sport
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 9,787 total · 45/month
Shared By: Quinn Stevens on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

176 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details


This route begins just right of arete, at the obvious crack system. Climb up the fun crack to a nice rest, then continue up and right into the dihedral. The crux of this route involves climbing up into and over the bulge to jugs. There seem to be a couple different ways of approaching this section, so fight off the pump and enjoy yourself on this solid climb.


Eight bolts to a two bolt anchor with chains.
Peter Franzen
Phoenix, AZ
Peter Franzen   Phoenix, AZ  
This is a fantastic route, but was I missing something up by the anchors? I had a hard time finding any holds at all about 5 feet below the anchors (well above both cruxes). I was probably just blind from lactic-acid buildup... Jan 1, 2001
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Re: Pete Franzen's comment.

I am sure that you found this in the end. However, a good stance for getting to the anchor can be had by cutting right around those rounded bulges, about ten feet below the anchor. You pick up good hands, and by staying cool can quickly step back left, over the bulge and right below the anchor. It turns out to be a good stance for clipping the anchor. I thought that the crux was also a bit circuitous. Cut hard left around the roof, and take scary move back right over the roof for a clip. Still, this is a great route and worth the effort to figure out. Jan 1, 2001
Joe Collins
Joe Collins  
One of the better sport routes in the Canyon. The crux is awkward... kind of like a harder version of the corner on Elanor (the route to the right)... some of the good holds in this section seemed like sucker holds. The 7th bolt, at the end of the crux section, was very difficult to clip.

hard 12b. Jun 4, 2003
Tricky and powerful crux. Very fun moves. Jul 13, 2003
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Someone left two locking carabiners on the anchor for this route which I'm assuming was by mistake. If you can identify them, let me know and I'll return them to you. May 10, 2004
Tricky and powerful. Made me feel like a weakling. So good! Jul 4, 2006
Jason Price
Jason Price  
Great route. Benchmark 12a. May 15, 2007
Aeon Aki    
"Overhung, powerful, and sustained." Aug 1, 2007
Keith H. North
Englewood, CO
Keith H. North   Englewood, CO
Hey, left my Gri-Gri 2 here yesterday... if you have it, please call me 303-359-6831.

mountainproject.com/v/lost-… May 28, 2011
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
The crux clip is extremely difficult for me off of that gaston. I'm thinking I'm just going to skip it next time I'm up there. Anyone ever do this? May 31, 2011
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Great Route, although I wouldn't give it four stars. It was a bit polished and fairly juggy with the exception of the crux section. It's a hard onsight too without having any beta, the heavily chalked holds split at the crux and can be a bit deceptive. Super fun though.... I don't think you can compare to Discipline, The Shaft, or Joy Ride which are all true 4 star 12b's in the area. Get on them if you haven't!!!! Jul 2, 2011
Eric Carlos
Eric Carlos   depends
Yes, the crux clip can be skipped, and the fall is fine. May 22, 2012
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
Okay, I take back my comment I put up a year ago about this route not being four stars. It's definitely fun, and the most exciting finish going right on Nevermore makes it even better.... Get after it.... Jul 10, 2012
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Classic route in my opinion though a bit polished. I think that's to be expected though in Boulder Canyon. The crux moves are pretty devious if you end up getting suckered into moving too high into the corner under the roof. Also a note on the anchor - there are not cold shuts, only chains at the top of this route currently. 8 bolts, plus two for the anchor.

The moves at the top are a bit... peculiar. My partner and I both went straight up, not right, by using a bit of dynamic force. There are some holds there to use. Jun 25, 2013
Boulder, CO
Train4life   Boulder, CO
There are size 12 shoes left that are up by Flying Beast...also, there is a draw I took down off of Tell Tale Heart's last bolt. If this is someone's, please e-mail me with what type of draw it is and what it looks like/color and it is yours...I apologize for the inconvenience. Jun 11, 2014
This was the first sport route established at this crag in May 1995. I originally rated it .12a. For me, it is much easier than Plan B or Joyride. It was only after watching many good shorter climbers struggle & call it 5.12 that I decided to rate it .12b. Shorter climbers climb the crux differently making more moves. This route was the beginning of a long, wonderful summer of putting up new routes at the crag. Jul 1, 2015
Boulder, CO
Branty   Boulder, CO
Oh my goodness, what a fun climb! Both dynamic parts in the upper half are great, the lower climbing is interesting, and the crux is crimpy...what more can ya ask for?!

I only found the high right crimp at the crux today. It's harder if you don't use it. Apr 19, 2018
doug haller
Boulder, Colorado
doug haller   Boulder, Colorado
Still a nice line despite having become slick-as-a-glass-door knob. Jul 16, 2018