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Routes in Easter Rock
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Barbarian Herbicide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dynamic Duel S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Furthermore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Joker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knappweed Herbicide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knappweed Herbicide (Part II) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sad Batman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 65 ft (20 m) |
| FA: | James Egan and Paul Kingston, 5/18/19 |
| Page Views: | 2,318 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Stonebhikku on May 19, 2019 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2025 - Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting
Details
2/3/25. Bitty Buttress, Blob, Eagle Rock &, Security Risk are closed for raptor nesting.
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
FS (3/27/24): Eagle Rock & Security Risk are now open!
2/1/24: W. McCurry: to protect nesting golden eagles, USFS annual area closures in Boulder Canyon beginning 2/1/24 - Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, Eagle Rock, Security Risk.
From W. McCurry: 2/10/23 Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk opened. Eagle Rock stayed closed - info: fs.usda.gov/detail/arp/news….
W. McCurry, NFS, Arap./Roo. NF: USFS began annual area closures in BC 2/1/23. The closures were Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District with BCC monitors nesting progress & informs climbers about giving eagles space to raise young.
Fed. & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting closures. Signs are posted at key access pts into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 mo. closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong & healthy eaglet this year,” wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but climber cooperation with closures are crucial to the eagles.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, nest sites stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made, unused areas opened in Apr.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal & state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, & wildlife professionals under an agreement with the FS enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest & the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, & the public. Visitors help protect wildlife by respecting all closures & leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office @ 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
As of 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are open. Eagle Rock stays closed until 7/31/2020 confirmed with Matt Henry, Rec Prog Mgr, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Pub Aff, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: 3/20/19, Blob, East Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security are open. Eagle stays closed to climbing & other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers.
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle, Blob, Bitty Buttress, & Security will close 2/1 - 7/31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting 2/1 through 7/31 at Eagle, Security, Blob, & Bitty Buttress. The area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
If you were an orphan superhero dressed as a bat in a vinyl suit, squeezed up next to a bunch of Edgar Allan Poe references, you’d probably feel sad too.
Sad Batman is a new edition to the Easter Rock area, starting just to the right of Elanor. Start up the trad line “Thunderdome,” place a piece or two (1” and smaller), and look for a line of 3 new bolts up the short compression feature cutting back left toward “Elanor”...clip a bolt on the hanging fridgeblock from the crack, and stand up into slopers and a great right hand underpinch to clip another bolt. Commit to the full squeeze using heel hooks, slopers, and small feet on the face, culminating to a left hand deadpoint to flat sloper just under the next bolt. Reset your feet, and throw to a jug to make the next clip, then finish up on Elanor’s pumping finale.
You can also link this into the “Evermore and Nevermore” sloper finish to create a fun slippery linkup called “Furthermore”.
Sad Batman is a new edition to the Easter Rock area, starting just to the right of Elanor. Start up the trad line “Thunderdome,” place a piece or two (1” and smaller), and look for a line of 3 new bolts up the short compression feature cutting back left toward “Elanor”...clip a bolt on the hanging fridgeblock from the crack, and stand up into slopers and a great right hand underpinch to clip another bolt. Commit to the full squeeze using heel hooks, slopers, and small feet on the face, culminating to a left hand deadpoint to flat sloper just under the next bolt. Reset your feet, and throw to a jug to make the next clip, then finish up on Elanor’s pumping finale.
You can also link this into the “Evermore and Nevermore” sloper finish to create a fun slippery linkup called “Furthermore”.
Location
Start up Thunderdome, look left after about 15 feet to the hanging compression feature with 3 Fixe bolts on it.
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