Type: Sport
FA: Dianne Barrow, Mark Rolofson, Rick Leitner, July, 1995
Page Views: 1,014 total · 5/month
Shared By: Jeff Lockyer on Sep 11, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


27 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Start just right of the fallen tree. (route to the right of The Penguin). Climb into a right-facing dihedral, staying a little left of the 5th bolt. Finish the route with a high hand beside and left of the anchors or traverse right at 6th bolt onto the covered ledge. (5.10'ish) It is a great dihedral with tricky feet and body positions, look for crimp on face by 3rd/4th bolt to get the feet and body up.

Protection

6 bolts / 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

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Just did this route a couple days ago - tricky, esp. as a warm up! Three of us did the route, 3 different variations for doing the crux. It's a lot harder than it looks from the ground. The Joker, 3 routes to the left, is a better warm up, though that has a couple thoughtful bits as well....

Oh, and we stayed dry in the rain! Jul 25, 2002
Paul Hunnicutt
Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Paul Hunnicutt   Boulder, CO
  5.11b
The first 3/4 of the route has very delicate, balancey moves. Everything feels insecure like you are just about to smear off. Then a good rest and a huge jug rail to the anchors...which I eloquently flopped across in true beached whale fashion. Not sure how much fun it would be blowing the anchor clip on this climb. Satisfying climb for me though. Jul 29, 2007
1st bolt is total sketch. Finish is really weird, and reeks of rat shit. Jul 11, 2012
erik rieger
Sheridan, WY
  5.11c
erik rieger   Sheridan, WY
  5.11c
This is up there with bad routes I've done in the canyon. The finishing move is just WEIRD. Jan 12, 2014
doug haller
Boulder, CO
doug haller   Boulder, CO
This route is extremely hard for the grade with a challenging start. Consider pre-clipping the rope to the first bolt. Very thin and awkward moves to gain the ledge by the second bolt with a long reach to get past the bulge. Jul 16, 2018
Erik N
Boulder, CO
Erik N   Boulder, CO
WARNING! The dead tree is very loose. A slight push from the top of Willard could send it tumbling onto anyone downhill. Aug 25, 2018
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.11c/d
There are actually two finishes using the same bolt. Groveling right & crawling onto the ledge may be easier, but it's a thrash. The harder & more enjoyable option is to stay just left of the last bolt & climb up the overhanging face using holds in a tiny corner. Clip the left anchor bolt for your last protection, & lunge for a good jug horn. I think the left hand finish makes this climb .11d. Jan 7, 2019