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Routes in Easter Rock

Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dynamic Duel S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Joker, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Knappweed Herbacide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport
FA: FFA: Peter Beal
Page Views: 288 total, 1/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Seasonal Closure Details

Description

A great line unfortunately marred by unnecessary gluing and chipping. Follow the crack system right of White Men Can't Jump (I can't either, I haven't done that route yet) to jug/rail then a few hard moves to the lip and a final mantel. Most folks jump from a drilled 2 finger pocket to the lip but enough crimpy edges and sidepulls exist to allow a truly free ascent at 5.13c or d. I'm working on it. Off-route holds include: 1. The big glued and bolted-on flake. 2. The reattached/ glued- on flake next to it. 3. The first drilled out finger jam. 4. The drilled 2 finger pocket. Those are the rules, now get to work!

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

Ben Crawford
Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Ben Crawford   Boulder, CO
  5.13a
Actually kind of fun if you can think past all of the modified holds! Sep 20, 2016
Bryan Gilmore
New England
Bryan Gilmore   New England
Why is this route here, I thought there was a policy against this! Sep 7, 2008
Does this route involve wild slaps? Nov 11, 2004
AC #2 would you by chance be the infamous author of the Boulder Canyon Sport and ADVENTURE climbing guidebook, Mark Rolofson ???? Because we have already read all your spray about redpointing up to the ___ bolt on all of your over-graded climbs. If you climb to the anchors you redpointed it, but if not, you did not do it....

with love,

Crusty, the Trad Monkey Aug 26, 2004
Well, I stuck the lip hold with my left hand, then bumped my right to the crimp before falling, would you agree that it was a solid 12c redpoint, I would give it 12c/d if I matched both hands on the jug before falling. Aug 26, 2004
?????  
Yeah, only if you redpoint up to the lip and limply brush it with your hand as you plummet back to earth...but I heard if you mantel the lip you are no longer classified as ultralyte Aug 26, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Let me again assert my support for climbingboulder.com anti-chipping campaign by affirming that this route was clearly modified for "free climbing" purposes. I disagree with the format of the campaign but respect its intent. Nov 7, 2001
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
 
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
 
Just in case any other climbers get the idea that I modified this route, let me set the record straight. I don't chip routes. Anyone is welcome to check out the dozen or so 5.13 FAs or FFAs I've done in Boulder Canyon and Clear Creek. One route has a reattached hold and a reinforced one. That route also has large drilled holds that I filled in. I consider Dynamic Duel to still be an aid climb and I encourage other climbers to rise to the challenge of climbing without chipped holds whatever the difficulty. Jul 24, 2001