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Empire of the Fenceless
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 3.5 from 424
votes
Routes in Easter Rock
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Barbarians S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Catwoman S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Chickenshit Armchair Environmentalist S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Dark Knight S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Dynamic Duel S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Easter Egg Hunt, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Egg S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Elanor S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Empire of the Fenceless S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Evermore S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Flying Beast, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Furthermore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Joker, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Knappweed Herbacide S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Knappweed Herbicide (Part II) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Mr. Two-Face S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Nevermore S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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New Road S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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New Test Of Men S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Penguin, The S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Pterodactyl Traverse S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Rain Shadow T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddler, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Road To Emmaus S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sad Batman S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Surrounded By Reality S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tell-Tale Heart S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Thunderdome T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Trustafarian Panhandler S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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White Men Can't Jump S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Willard S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Sport |
| FA: | Ken Trout |
| Page Views: | 25,373 total · 94/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Franzen on Dec 31, 2000 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2023
Details
W. McCurry, NF Info Deliv. Lead, Arapahoe/Roosevelt NFS: The USFS is implementing annual area closures in BC beginning Feb. 1, 2023. The closures include Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk.
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open . Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing & all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC and the AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of givi....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close Feb. 1 - July 31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting Feb. 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Effective through 7/31/23, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera will remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC to monitor nesting progress & to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise young.
Federal & state laws prohibit disturbing any nesting bird of prey. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures. Signs will be posted at key access points into the closed areas. Closure info: fs.usda.gov/goto/arp/eagles.
K. Armstrong, Public Affairs Specialist, Nat'l Forest Service: as of 6/8/21: BC areas reopen after unsuccessful nesting.
K. Armstrong, NF Ranger 7/29/20:
Following a 5 month closure to protect nesting eagles, the Roosevelt NF has reopened Eagle Rock climbing area in BC.
“The BC eagles successfully raised 1 strong and healthy eaglet this year,” said wildlife biologist Aurelia DeNasha, USDA FS. “2 chicks hatched initially, but unfortunately only 1 survived to fledge, which isn’t uncommon in birds of prey.”
Visits to the nest did not reveal the exact cause of death of the 2nd chick, but cooperation by climbers with the closures are crucial to the eagles’ success each season.
“Golden eagle pairs are most susceptible to disturbance when choosing a nest. These closures allow the birds to pick the best site for survival without impact of other factors, such as human presence. Once chosen, the nest site stays closed until the eagles fledge in late July,” said DeNasha.
After the eagles’ site selection was made unused areas reopened in April.
The annual nesting closures include popular rock climbing spots at Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress & Security Risk in BC.
Effective through 7/31/20, the closures protect a long-established golden eagle nesting territory. Happy Hour, Bihedral & Riviera remain open as long as visitors stay out of the closed areas.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with BCC & AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of giving the eagles space to raise their young.
It is against federal and state law to disturb any nesting bird of prey. Only employees, volunteers, and wildlife professionals under an agreement with the Forest Service enter nesting areas for monitoring purposes. This is for the integrity of nest and the safety of the eagles, those conducting surveys, and the public. Visitors can help protect wildlife by respecting all closures and leaving immediately if you should accidentally enter one.
For the most current closure information, check signs in the areas, call the Boulder Ranger District office at 303-541-2500, or visit local climbing websites or fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Starting 4/21/20, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk are now open . Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing & all activities until 7/31/2020. This was confirmed with Matt Henry, Recreation Program Manager, FS.
From K. Armstrong, FS Public Affairs, katherine.armstrong@usda.gov, 970-222-7607: starting 3/20/19, Blob Rock, East Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and Security Risk are now open to activities. Eagle Rock remains closed to climbing and other activities through 7/31/19.
The Boulder Ranger District partners with the BCC and the AF to monitor nesting progress and to inform climbers about the importance of givi....
See - fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/rec….
Perennial notice:
Eagle Rock, Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, & Security Risk will close Feb. 1 - July 31 for nesting. Depending on updated information, the closure time can be shortened/lengthened.
Each year, BC raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting Feb. 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, & Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored & closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the FS Boulder Ranger District, BCC, & Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at fs.usda.gov/recarea/arp/rec…
Description
This incredible route leads up the north face of Easter Rock on the right side of the arete that separates the north and east faces. There isn't a bad move on it, save for the awkward moves on jugs just below the anchors.
The difficulties are sustained throughout the route, though a few moves may be more difficult for shorter people. I'd give this one 5 stars if I could.
Several individuals have nearly hit the deck when falling while clipping the 3rd bolt. Shorter climbers should consider adding a long draw to protect the moves getting to the 3rd bolt.
The difficulties are sustained throughout the route, though a few moves may be more difficult for shorter people. I'd give this one 5 stars if I could.
Several individuals have nearly hit the deck when falling while clipping the 3rd bolt. Shorter climbers should consider adding a long draw to protect the moves getting to the 3rd bolt.
Photos
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