Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Mark Rolofson
Page Views: 14,468 total · 55/month
Shared By: Willie Mein on Aug 1, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


121 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Closures 2024 - Bitty Buttress, Blob (Eagle Rock & Security Risk now open!) DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This excellent route delivers the pump, with great moves on solid rock.

"Nevermore" ***(5.13a) is the bolted line just right of the arete "Empire of the Fenceless" ***(5.12a). It shares the crux, and the first 30 feet of "Tell Tale Heart" *** (5.12b), but continues right above the roof instead of exiting left.

The initial 20 feet of 5.10 climbing on big holds is a great intro before reaching the roof and a devious 5.12d crux toward the end.

One must power through a variety of interesting moves and holds before reaching the chains. With slopers, crimps and jugs, ... gastons, drop knees and heel hooks, this climb will keep your head thinking and your forearms pumping. Once you enter the business district, the clock is ticking as the pump grows.

This route is very well-protected. However, some of the clips (7 & 8) can be difficult and add to the pump. To work the crux on toprope without swinging right, bring a directional (0.75-1.25 cam) to stuff in the crack directly above the crux moves.

As another person commented, this route "flows like honey on hot cakes." Yeah, baby!

Protection Suggest change

9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Photos

loading