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5.13a, Sport, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 84 votes
FA: Mark Rolofson
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Easter Rock
Access Issue: Seasonal Closure / Update Details


This excellent route delivers the pump, with great moves on solid rock.

"Nevermore" ***(5.13a) is the bolted line just right of the arete "Empire of the Fenceless" ***(5.12a). It shares the crux, and the first 30 feet of "Tell Tale Heart" *** (5.12b), but continues right above the roof instead of exiting left.

The initial 20 feet of 5.10 climbing on big holds is a great intro before reaching the roof and a devious 5.12d crux toward the end.

One must power through a variety of interesting moves and holds before reaching the chains. With slopers, crimps and jugs, ... gastons, drop knees and heel hooks, this climb will keep your head thinking and your forearms pumping. Once you enter the business district, the clock is ticking as the pump grows.

This route is very well-protected. However, some of the clips (7 & 8) can be difficult and add to the pump. To work the crux on toprope without swinging right, bring a directional (0.75-1.25 cam) to stuff in the crack directly above the crux moves.

As another person commented, this route "flows like honey on hot cakes." Yeah, baby!


9 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Alber on the crux slopers of Nevermore, around 1996.

Photo:  Mark Rolofson.
[Hide Photo] Chris Alber on the crux slopers of Nevermore, around 1996. Photo: Mark Rolofson.
Scott entering the crux sloper section on Nevermore.
[Hide Photo] Scott entering the crux sloper section on Nevermore.
Chris Alber clipping the crux bolt, around 1996.

Photo: Mark Rolofson.
[Hide Photo] Chris Alber clipping the crux bolt, around 1996. Photo: Mark Rolofson.
Scott sizing up the business end of Nevermore.
[Hide Photo] Scott sizing up the business end of Nevermore.
[Hide Photo] untitled

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] This is one of the better routes I have done in the canyon. Sustained technical power endurance culminating in some nice sloper moves and a throw. Can't ask for much more. Aug 18, 2002
[Hide Comment] I heard Willie flogs dead horses when he's not sending 5.13.... Aug 30, 2002
Willie Mein
[Hide Comment] Now Ryan, nice. Sep 12, 2002
[Hide Comment] 12c. Aug 25, 2004
[Hide Comment] 13b/c. Aug 26, 2004
[Hide Comment] 12c not even close to thirteen a - sorry, newbies. Sep 19, 2004
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
[Hide Comment] This route can feel a lot easier depending on conditions and the height of the climber. If you feel a route is off by two letter grades you should probably register and let us all know who's keeping the "newbies" in their place. Some who think this route is pretty hard aren't newbies. Sep 20, 2004
[Hide Comment] I have seen very well established climbers not be able to do the moves on this route - much less link it. For those who feel it is easy for the grade - more power to you. Dec 28, 2004
[Hide Comment] This is a fantastic route--sustained, pumpy, and technical on cool holds. Highly recommended. May 3, 2006
[Hide Comment] Things to know if you want to do this route to beef up your 8a scorecard, or just your spraysumé, and aren't the type to just climb for the experience of climbing:

> Crux finale seems stout for the shorter climber using the right-hand-crimp method. Heel hooks are NOT mandatory at the crux.
> Basically feels like climbing a solid 5.12a followed by a 5-to-6-move V5.
> I'd say it was soft if I hadn't missed the finishing jug a half-dozen times already. Beware.
> My buddy who did Sonic Youth (5.12d/13a) found this to be more difficult, in that Sonic took him fewer tries.
> I think this route does favor the power climber, since the climbing leading up to the crux is pretty easy, especially when you get it dialed.

Chuff on, chuffers. Oct 27, 2008
[Hide Comment] This thing definitely felt 5.13a. Sure, it is much easier with the right beta, but then again so is every route. By far one of the best in Boulder Canyon. Super fun climb with awesome movement! Jun 29, 2010
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] This route is truly amazing and one of the best at Easter Rock. You get to do the amazing and fun crux of Tell Tale Heart, then cut right and go through a burly section of slopey moves to a final deadpoint off a really bad sloper. This route is dope and definitely 4 stars in my book. Do it when it's cold! Jun 27, 2012
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
[Hide Comment] What a great route! It just keeps getting better and better as you climb higher and higher, climaxing with an awesome deadpoint to a mega-jug! Doesn't get much better than that, I had a really good time working on and climbing this route. Definitely one of the best, if not the best route at the crag.

I didn't understand why the anchor bolts are 3 feet to the right though, makes cleaning more difficult. Sep 4, 2012
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Definitely one of my all time favorites. Tell Tale Heart was the first sport route on the crag, followed by Elanor, then Evermore (the easier way to get to the same crux from Elanor), then Empire Of The Fenceless, then Flying Beast. After that, I put up Nevermore in July 1995. I had the crux move wired doing it on "Evermore" but fell just shy on the horizontal jug break for almost 5 days on Nevermore. I had to find a better way to dyno this crux. I finally redpointed it on day 6. After the first ascent, I repeated it numerous times that summer. I have probably redpointed it 20 times between 1995 & 2004. I have thought it could be rated 5.12d/13a. I am tall, & it feels like .12d in good cool conditions, but I have done it so many times it isn't fair to call it anything but .13a (what I originally rated it).
I love the flow of the moves on this climb & the aggressive crux dyno. Best day at this crag has been sending Elanor, Flying Beast, Nevermore, The Penguin, & Empire Of The Fenceless. That's a good day. Jun 11, 2015
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] In response to Jay Samuelson not understanding the anchor placement: Evermore was established before Nevermore, & the anchor works good for it. Secondly, I did not want someone doing Tell Tale Heart to go to this anchor. Climbers can climb Evermore & Tell Tale Heart at the same time, but not if they mistakenly arrive at the same anchor. Thirdly, before drilling, I always hammer tap the rock to make sure it is solid & not hollow sounding. I can't remember if this could have a factor.
As for cleaning, it seems that gyms have raised some very strong climbers whose technical skills are a bit lacking. Try tramming to the rope with a single biner attached to your belay loop rather than a draw. I do use a draw but clip the rope biner directly to the loop, so I am into a single biner to the rope versus clipping the bolt biner into the belay loop & rope biner into the rope. The commom second method is a good way to pinch the skin on your bicep between rope & biner or your breast, ladies. Tramming in short generally avoids skin or nimble loss & keeps you in closer. Try it on the steepest overhang. It works.
Lastly, I don't usually clean the first bolt when lowering. I climb back up from the ground to retrieve it afterwards. Jun 30, 2015
Dean Cool
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Another way to clean the route is to climb back down from the anchor-remove the last clip-finish on Tell Tale. We found this way creates an easier clean, and you get in some more climbing. Aug 24, 2015
Eric Carlos
[Hide Comment] Or just clean the route on the backside as an extra "training" pitch. Sep 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] I don't know. I never climbed a 13 before, AND I'm ugly...probably only 12b. Oct 8, 2015
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] There are several ways to dispatch the crux. Only one way worked for me, and it was very low percentage with some precise body positioning. If you are tall, I can see harder 12 for this route. For everyone else, 13a seems fair. I have never fallen slipping off a finishing hold so many times. Oct 18, 2017
Peter Jacobs
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] What a great route! This was my first 13, and it took me probably 13 tries, but I finally got it. The last bolt is only necessary if you are working the crux. When you go for it, you can skip it, but be ready for a gentle swing into the rock. May 12, 2018
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] Wow, that's pretty wild, Peter Jacobs, skipping the last bolt. I can't imagine doing that, nor have I ever seen or heard of anybody else skipping it. It's actually a pretty reasonable clip, & you don't have to pull out much slack. After clipping it, I would even quickly chalk up before going into the crux. Jan 7, 2019