Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Equipped by Mark Rolofson, FFA Peter Beal
Page Views: 1,201 total · 6/month
Shared By: Peter Beal on Jun 14, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Closure - 2018 Update Details

Description

Climb the traverse line right of Dynamic Duel to a tricky crux at the end. The end is getting two hands on the obvious jug. After the first (easy) section of caramelized, rat droppings, this route is really good, like an easy version of Desdichado.

This climb follows the obvious traverse line on the left end of the long overhang, left of Flying Beast.

Protection

7 bolts/anchor.

Photos

When giving the details, please give info that will get one to the climb without a guidebook in hand. Dynamic Duel is referenced. Where is that? Jun 20, 2002
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
This climb follows the obvious traverse line on the left end of the long overhang. Jun 25, 2002
This route is much better than the first twenty feet look, and it is possible to avoid the brown stuff. It's left of the Flying Beast not Dynamic Duel. You get to the finishing jug by moving down and left, not by going straight up to the area of the anchors. Aug 29, 2002
Ben Crawford
Boulder, CO
 
Ben Crawford   Boulder, CO
 
Does anyone know the name of the line just to the left of the climber in the picture (in between this one and Dynamic Duel)? There is also a bolted traverse running through that is not listed on this site or in the book. May 5, 2015
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
  5.12d
Ben, that is an old project. The traverse is chipped, but the upper seam/corner is all natural and brick hard, maybe V13 bouldering? May 7, 2015
Mark Rolofson
Boulder, CO
  5.13a/b
Mark Rolofson   Boulder, CO
  5.13a/b
In August 2000, I actually did more than just equip this climb. I redpointed to where I was able to grab the right anchor (.12c). My intent was not to stop here but to traverse more left to the jug on the lip of the giant overhang. Here the anchor can be clipped. So I took the right anchor bolt out & put a new left anchor bolt in. The original left bolt becoming the right, so you couldn't end the route this way. I then added the last protection bolt which is a hard clip. The last moves to the jug are quite hard. I was never able to do them. I haven't been on it for years, but I am surprised to see it rated only .12d. The finish seemed more like 5.13. Perhaps I missed the trick on how to do the finish to the final jug, but it sure seemed a hell of a lot harder than its neighbor "Flying Beast".( a route that I redpointed on dozens of occasions). I had no problem letting Peter get the FFA. I had enough of the bat shit flake. The hard traverse past the flake is excellent if you can stomach the flake. May 25, 2015