Type: Trad, 55 ft (17 m)
GPS: 47.6999, -52.6984
FA: Steve Russell or Jeff Holmes
Page Views: 672 total · 8/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Apr 11, 2019
Admins: David Bruneau

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

A bold, sandbagged route which includes some of the best and worst climbing at Main Face. With multiple cruxes that feel like 5.11 and some potentially dangerous climbing, this route is commonly, if not always, done as a headpoint or toprope. Care should be taken even on toprope as the rock in the easier section of the climb is thought to be unstable.

Boulder up to a high first bolt. Typically people have done this unprotected, but a crash pad or stick clip is an option. Once the bolt is clipped, go either straight up or diagonally left, both options go at a similar difficulty. At this point, mount the sandy, loose blocks with gear in behind them (5.8R) to arrive at the base of the overhanging, splitter finger crack. Climb this amazing crack to the top.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, including micro cams. Bring some extra finger sized pieces for the gear anchor.

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