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Routes in Main Face

A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fifth Element T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hakuna Matata T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Homer Erectus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ledge Dweller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pucker Up T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Spray Down S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Caulk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: David Bruneau, Jackson P.
Page Views: 82 total, 3/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jun 30, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description

This route goes up the appealing (at least more than its surroundings) hanging dihedral in the middle of the blasted section of Main Face. The climbing is pretty good, but the structure of the rock becomes increasingly disconcerting as you move further off the ground. There is still loose rock on the pitch, the obvious holds that I easily tore off at the crux suggested that this was likely a FA. It would be a nice climb if given a good cleaning and a rappel anchor 2/3rds of the way up but the rock structure makes me hesitant to do this.

Starting on a cube shaped boulder, climb the left side of the easy, slabby face up to the hanging corner. Climb the corner past an awkward crux to some unpleasant, gravelly moves onto a grassy ledge. Continue upwards then grovel through the blocky, overhung slot to top out. Belay off some trees. Top out by scrambling over some very slick shrubs - staying on belay here is a good idea.

Location

Way south of all the good routes

Protection

Standard rack to 3", doubles of blue mastercam size is a good idea. Ballnuts. Tree anchor.

Photos

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