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Routes in Main Face

A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fifth Element T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hakuna Matata T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Homer Erectus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ledge Dweller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pucker Up T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Spray Down S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Caulk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: J. Holmes, S Russell, K, McClellan
Page Views: 282 total, 9/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jun 11, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best climbs at Main Face, though rarely done. There are 2 possible starts about 8 feet apart, which join each other about 30 feet up. The left start can be belayed from a ledge that is always above the waterline, while the right start must be belayed from a ledge that is often underwater. This route is best done when the tide is very low, or by rappelling down a fixed line on Last Chance. It does not seep as much as Last Chance.

For the left start, climb a thin crack to a sloping ledge and step right to the main crack. Climb this past flakes to a horizontal crack. Traverse left 10 feet to another crack and climb it to a thin flake. Pass this flake and continue up more flakes to a ledge. Continue straight up to another 30 foot crack past a couple overlaps leading to the top of the climb.

The climb is very sustained but offers more good rests than it may appear from below.

Location

Far right end of main face next to last chance

Protection

Double Rack from 00 to 1", single from 2" to 3" and many long slings. Ballnuts can be nice at times. Don't bother bringing anything bigger than 3". 2 Bolt anchor at the top with no rap hardware. Need someone to follow and walk-off.

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