Type: Trad, 150 ft
FA: J. Holmes, S Russell, K, McClellan
Page Views: 316 total · 7/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jun 11, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

You & This Route


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Description

One of the best climbs at Main Face, though rarely done. There are 2 possible starts about 8 feet apart, which join each other about 30 feet up. The left start can be belayed from a ledge that is always above the waterline, while the right start must be belayed from a ledge that is often underwater. This route is best done when the tide is very low, or by rappelling down a fixed line on Last Chance. It does not seep as much as Last Chance.

For the left start, climb a thin crack to a sloping ledge and step right to the main crack. Climb this past flakes to a horizontal crack. Traverse left 10 feet to another crack and climb it to a thin flake. Pass this flake and continue up more flakes to a ledge. Continue straight up to another 30 foot crack past a couple overlaps leading to the top of the climb.

The climb is very sustained but offers more good rests than it may appear from below.

Location

Far right end of main face next to last chance

Protection

Double Rack from 00 to 1", single from 2" to 3" and many long slings. Ballnuts can be nice at times. Don't bother bringing anything bigger than 3". 2 Bolt anchor at the top with no rap hardware. Need someone to follow and walk-off.

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