Elevation: 32 ft
GPS: 47.7, -52.698 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 36,210 total · 373/month
Shared By: Unknown Unknown on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: David Bruneau

Description

The largest part of Flatrock containing the vast majority of climbs including the longer routes and a few two pitch climbs towards the northern end. The area receives morning sun and the temperature can change dramatically without the sun if the wind is blowing.

A unique feature of the crag is that the boulders at the bottom of the routes shift around from season to season. This can result in unusually high (or low) first bolts on routes. The motion of the boulders also has the effect of rounding off the holds at the bottom of the routes, resulting in a crux at the beginning of many of the routes. A stick clip is more mandatory here than most other crags, and hesitate to stick clip the second bolt if ground fall seems likely when climbing past the first.   

While a scramble from the trail above exists which can be used to set topropes on routes near Yellow Fever, there is some loose rock present which could be dislodged onto groups below. It is recommended to climb Candy (5.7 sport) to set toprope anchors on routes from MC Hammer to Hysteria, and to climb Spray Down (5.7+ sport) to reach anchors from Flaccid to Seascape.

Getting There

Park past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking. Hike uphill to Wade's lane, which is followed uphill to a trail which is past all the houses, as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail, do not turn onto the main trail but cross straight over it past some boulders to a hidden trail down the other side. This trail curves to the right down an obvious ramp, past a bench, to a rockier section that you need to scramble down to reach the face which stretches north from the bottom of the trail. At the worst section of the trail, there is now a fixed line attached to two bolts which can be used for stability.

NOTE: The old trail directly above the pull off has recently been marked with private property signs. Please avoid using this trail to prevent potential access issues. The new trail is just as easy, if not a little easier anyway. Also note that parking is no longer permitted on Wade's lane, and climbers are requested to park just past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking.

83 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Face Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
Candy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 7
It'll Be Fine
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 16
Spray Down
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 9
Wet Chalk
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Hakuna Matata
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 13
Yellow Fever
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Seascape
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Last Chance
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Iron Hand
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 4
Operation Recuperation
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
MC Hammer
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 7
Hysteria
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 11
Easy Company
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Maggie
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 6
Fine Line Between Fear and Flying
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Candy
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
It'll Be Fine
 7
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Spray Down
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wet Chalk
 9
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Hakuna Matata
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Yellow Fever
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Seascape
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Last Chance
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Iron Hand
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Operation Recuperation
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
MC Hammer
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Hysteria
 7
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Easy Company
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Maggie
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Fine Line Between Fear and…
 6
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Face »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

0 Comments