Elevation: 32 ft
GPS: 47.7, -52.698 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 24,192 total · 286/month
Shared By: Unknown Unknown on Apr 18, 2013
Admins: David Bruneau

Description

The largest part of Flatrock containing the vast majority of climbs including the longer routes and a few two pitch climbs towards the northern end. The area receives morning sun and the temperature can change dramatically without the sun if the wind is blowing.

While a scramble from the trail above exists which can be used to set topropes on routes near Yellow Fever, there is some loose rock present which could be dislodged onto groups below. It is recommended to climb Candy (5.7 sport) to set toprope anchors on routes from MC Hammer to Hysteria, and to climb Spray Down (5.7+ sport) to reach anchors from Flaccid to Seascape.

Getting There

Park past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking. Hike uphill to Wade's lane, which is followed uphill to a trail which is past all the houses, as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail, do not turn onto the main trail but cross straight over it past some boulders to a hidden trail down the other side. This trail curves to the right down an obvious ramp, past a bench, to a rockier section that you need to scramble down to reach the face which stretches north from the bottom of the trail. At the worst section of the trail, there is now a fixed line attached to two bolts which can be used for stability.

NOTE: The old trail directly above the pull off has recently been marked with private property signs. Please avoid using this trail to prevent potential access issues. The new trail is just as easy, if not a little easier anyway. Also note that parking is no longer permitted on Wade's lane, and climbers are requested to park just past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking.

71 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face

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