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Elevation: 32 ft 10 m
GPS: 47.6999, -52.6984
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 56,355 total · 357/month
Shared By: Unknown Unknown on Apr 18, 2013 · Updates
Admins: David Bruneau

Description Suggest change

The largest part of Flatrock containing the vast majority of climbs including the longer routes and a few two pitch climbs towards the northern end. The area receives morning sun and the temperature can change dramatically without the sun if the wind is blowing.

A unique feature of the crag is that the boulders at the bottom of the routes shift around from season to season. This can result in unusually high (or low) first bolts on routes. The motion of the boulders also has the effect of rounding off the holds at the bottom of the routes, resulting in a crux at the beginning of many of the routes. A stick clip is mandatory here, and don't hesitate to stick clip the second bolt if ground fall seems likely when climbing past the first.   

While a scramble from the trail above exists which can be used to set topropes on routes near Yellow Fever, there is some loose rock present which could be dislodged onto groups below. It is recommended to climb Candy (5.7 sport) to set toprope anchors on routes from MC Hammer to Hysteria, and to climb Spray Down (5.7+ sport) to reach anchors from Flaccid to Seascape.

Getting There Suggest change

Park past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking. Hike uphill to Wade's lane, which is followed uphill to a trail which is past all the houses, as in the attached picture. When you meet the main trail, do not turn onto the main trail but cross straight over it past some boulders to a hidden trail down the other side.

About halfway down, turn right near a welcome to main face sign. The trail descends a grassy slope with switchbacks, ending on a scree path. You can use the hard rock to then travel south to Spanky’s or north to Mainface.

Note that parking is no longer permitted on Wade's lane, and climbers are requested to park just past the Wharf, in the East Coast Trail Parking.

85 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Main Face Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
Noggin
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 28
Candy
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 26
Spray Down
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 17
Wet Chalk
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 24
Hakuna Matata
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
 19
Yellow Fever
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Last Chance
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 18
Creationism
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 6
Operation Recuperation
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Hysteria
Sport, TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Easy Company
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 7
Sledgehammer
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Maggie
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 8
Fine Line Between Fear and Flying
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 5
Flying Cabbages
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Noggin
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Candy
 28
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Spray Down
 26
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Wet Chalk
 17
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Hakuna Matata
 24
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Yellow Fever
 19
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 Trad, TR
Last Chance
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Creationism
 18
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Operation Recuperation
 6
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Hysteria
 16
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport, TR
Easy Company
 16
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Sledgehammer
 7
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Maggie
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Fine Line Between Fear and…
 8
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Flying Cabbages
 5
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Main Face »

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