Type: Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: J. Presswood
Page Views: 577 total · 10/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Mar 2, 2019
Admins: David Bruneau

You & This Route

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One of the oldest routes at Main Face, and feels stiff for the original grade of 5.11a, due to the added length since the boulders at the base washed away. Nowadays, the route starts more or less in the ocean, with the best belay boulder accessible only at mid to low tide. An anchor has now been placed directly over the climb (July 28th, 2019) which allows you to toprope the route and prevents the rope from running through a sharp crack, which had a reputation for damaging ropes.

Step over from a protruding belay boulder and climb to the new first bolt (stick clip here would be useful). From here, three older (but still bomber) 1/2 inch bolts lead to the left edge of Drop the Mental Ledge where there is now a two bolt anchor. The hard climbing is well protected by the bolts, though the easier terrain on the route can feel a bit run out.


under the left end of Drop the Mental ledge


Four bolts, anchor, small cam for beginning or stick clip first bolt.