Type: Trad, TR, 120 ft
FA: J. Holmes
Page Views: 211 total · 5/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Sep 5, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

You & This Route


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Description

The best climb at main face? Unfortunately the hardest to access and almost always wet. I may add a belay bolt at the bottom of this to ease access.

Getting to the base of it is a challenge - I did a traverse in from the left about a foot above the ocean which was much harder than any move on the actual route. Once established at the base of the dihedral, excellent climbing leads up to a roof which is passed on the left side. Continue up cracks until you are a foot below a big bush. An obvious traverse leads right until one can climb up to the sloping ledge. Above this ledge easier cracks with good pro and great exposure lead to the top.

Location

Over the ocean at the far north end of main face

Protection

One of the best protected 5.10 trad climbs at main face. Single rack to #2 camalot protected this perfectly but extra finger to hand sized cams could speed things up. Ballnuts are useful but not necessary. Bolt anchor up top but the climb cannot be rappelled with a 60m rope.

Photos

Sarah Spurrell
St. John's, NL
Sarah Spurrell   St. John's, NL
the belay is definitely the "punishment" Mar 31, 2016