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Redemption
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in Main Face
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A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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All that and a Bag of Chips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Arms Race T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Ass Master T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blackout S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Boogie Wonderland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cabbages and Kings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cepphus Grylle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Changing Corner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crystal Therapy T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Drop the Mental T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Easy Way Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Fifth Element T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fine Line Between Fear and Flying S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Flying Cabbages S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Frank Sinatra T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Gabe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Gabe Direct T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Good Country Lovin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hakuna Matata S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Here Come the Shit Hawks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Homer Erectus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Hysteria S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
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Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Ledge Dweller S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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LSTB Program T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Mid-Atlantic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Middle of a Choss Pile, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Nautical Noggin T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Noggin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One Fine Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Operation Recuperation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Over Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Paging Don Kiedick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Permanent Vacation TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
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Pog Mahoe S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pucker Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Redemption T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Remembrance Day T C2 |
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Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Screaming Life S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Sea World T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Second Skin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Serpentine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
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Sledgehammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Something Heinous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Spray Down S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wet Chalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Whaleback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
| GPS: | 47.6999, -52.6984 |
| FA: | J. Presswood (at 5.10a) |
| Page Views: | 587 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | David Bruneau on Mar 2, 2019 |
| Admins: | David Bruneau |
Description
Shares a start with Paging Don Kiedick. The route has a bit of a complicated history, I believe the route was first done in 1995, but the first two bolts were then chopped soon after. in 2012 or 2013, the start ledge fell off. Soon after, a new first bolt was added, and the first chopped bolt was replaced with what is now the second bolt. One chopped stud remains, but is the least critical of the bolts on the climb, and can be slung with a nut.
Climb the bouldery start past two bolts. Once past the roof, the climb is nice 5.8 cruise up a long corner past a chopped stud which can be slung with a nut. A sloping ledge is reached, and another good bolt leads left to a crack. Just before the large ledge, which may be guarded by a seagull, one can continue up over the ledge to easier corner climbing, shared with Easy Way Out (5.7). Another option is to traverse left to the anchor on Paging Don Kiedick, which is well protected 5.8 with a large cam (4 or 5 camalot) to protect the middle of the traverse. Using the traverse finish, the climb can be done with a 60m rope (knotted ends).
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