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Routes in Main Face

A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fifth Element T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hakuna Matata T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Homer Erectus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ledge Dweller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pucker Up T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Spray Down S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Caulk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: David Bruneau at 12b, FRA Sarah Spurrell at 5.12c
Page Views: 308 total, 10/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jun 19, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description

This is an excellent, hard climb up one of the cleanest faces in Flatrock. It starts on the ledge on top of P1 of Drop the Mental (5.9 trad).

Start at the left side of the big ledge. Climb to a small ledge 3 feet above the belay ledge and step right to a bolt (easy but a little creepy, optional hand sized cam here). The climb weaves up the face from here on interesting moves. There is a 2 bolt anchor with no rap hardware after 65 feet of climbing.

Above here is very dirty 5.6 climbing leading eventually to the top of the cliff and another anchor with no rap hardware, it is 100 feet to the belay from this anchor.

Location

Off Drop the Mental ledge

Protection

7 Quickdraws + Anchor. Pre-Hanging the draws by rappelling in is a good strategy. I will eventually put in a 2 bolt rappel anchor at the top of the climb.

Photos

Helmet is a must--there is no loose rock on the route but a substantial amount just above it, generally the size of baseballs Sep 30, 2015