Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: David Bruneau at 12b, FRA Sarah Spurrell at 5.12c
Page Views: 436 total · 10/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jun 19, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description

This is an excellent, hard climb up one of the cleanest faces in Flatrock. It starts on the ledge on top of P1 of Drop the Mental (5.9 trad).

Start at the left side of the big ledge. Climb to a small ledge 3 feet above the belay ledge and step right to a bolt (easy but a little creepy, optional hand sized cam here). The climb weaves up the face from here on interesting moves. There is a 2 bolt anchor with no rap hardware after 65 feet of climbing.

Above here is protectable 5.6 climbing leading eventually to the top of the cliff and another anchor, it is 100 feet to the belay from this anchor. 

Location

Off Drop the Mental ledge

Protection

7 Quickdraws + Anchor. Pre-Hanging the draws by rappelling in is a good strategy. I will eventually put in a 2 bolt rappel anchor at the top of the climb.

Photos

Sarah Spurrell
St. John's, NL
 
Sarah Spurrell   St. John's, NL
 
Helmet recommended. There is no loose rock on the route but a substantial amount just above it, generally the size of baseballs Sep 30, 2015