Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
GPS: 47.6999, -52.6984
FA: David Bruneau, Nick Brown, Axel O'Young
Page Views: 723 total · 6/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Aug 13, 2015
Admins: David Bruneau

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Description Suggest change

Excellent crack over the ocean with excellent pro in fine-grained rock. Some crack skills required, but face holds often ease the climbing.

The crack starts thin but soon widens to hand size and then wider. The sections where the crack closes off are bypassed using the adjacent finger cracks (crux). Once easy ground is reached, traverse left to the large ledge to avoid the obvious but very chossy overhanging chimney above. From the ledge, 25 feet of easy 5th class up the corner leads to the ledge at the top.

Location Suggest change

Over the ocean north of the other climbs. Access by scrambling through bushes about 50m south of the bunker at the top of the Beamer through a clearing in the trees. Set a rappel off a tree (35-40m) and rappel to a nice ledge 15 feet above the ocean.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack to 3", doubles in hand size cams.
Tree anchor at the top, gear anchor at the bottom which takes many different sizes of cams and nuts.

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