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Routes in Main Face

A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Arms Race T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fifth Element T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fine Line Between Fear and Flying S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hakuna Matata T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Homer Erectus S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hysteria S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2
Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ledge Dweller S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Noggin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Operation Recuperation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pucker Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shark Fin T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Spray Down S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wet Caulk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: David Bruneau, Nick Brown, Axel O'Young
Page Views: 90 total · 3/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Aug 13, 2015
Admins: Phil Stennett

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Description [Suggest Change]

Excellent crack over the ocean with excellent pro in fine-grained rock. Some crack skills required, but face holds often ease the climbing.

The crack starts thin but soon widens to hand size and then wider. The sections where the crack closes off are bypassed using the adjacent finger cracks (crux). Once easy ground is reached, traverse left to the large ledge to avoid the obvious but very chossy overhanging chimney above. From the ledge, 25 feet of easy 5th class up the corner leads to the ledge at the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Over the ocean north of the other climbs. Access by scrambling through bushes about 50m south of the bunker at the top of the Beamer through a clearing in the trees. Set a rappel off a tree (35-40m) and rappel to a nice ledge 15 feet above the ocean.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard rack to 3", doubles in hand size cams.
Tree anchor at the top, gear anchor at the bottom which takes many different sizes of cams and nuts.

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