Type: Trad, Aid, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 296 total · 9/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Jan 8, 2019
Admins: David Bruneau

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained but reasonable aid climb that goes without a hammer. Frequent marginal placements, but rarely more than one before reaching another good piece.

Aid up an arching crack (C1-2), then traverse under the big roof via the inset wall with a small ledge (C2). When you reach on the outer face, sustained tricky aid (awkward C2) through smaller roofs leads to a gear belay, where the angle of the wall eases and cracks appear. 5.7 climbing then leads to scrambling to the top of the cliff. The climb may go at a lower grade if you pull some free moves at various points, but we didn't ever leave our aiders because it was freezing cold. 

Location

The line through the roof just right of Jekyll & Hyde

Protection

We used a clean aid rack similar to what one would use in Yosemite (Cams to #2 camalot, with doubles of cams to 0.75 plus offset cams and nuts, a handful of micro nuts, and a BD cliffhanger hook)

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