Type: Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches
FA: Jeff Holmes (FA 5.9 variation, Matt Scott & David Bruneau?)
Page Views: 534 total · 9/month
Shared By: David Bruneau on Mar 2, 2019
Admins: David Bruneau

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Description Suggest change

An alternate second pitch to Drop the Mental. Climb ledges to the left for about 25 feet, until you reach a big ledge with a hollow-sounding flake that leads to the right. Climb this hollow flake into an obvious dihedral, which is followed to the first of a few roofs. From here there are two options.

The original route (5.10a) turns the roof on the left, then continues up sloping holds on the exposed face to a shallow crack which leads to the top. This option is quite runout, as the last good pro is a few feet below the roof, and there is a considerable amount of difficult climbing after the roof before getting solid gear. Years ago, we trundled a large flake from under the roof, so at least the rock should be solid now.

A safer option is to continue up the corner which arches right, under some roofs, eventually leading to a more vertical corner directly above "Angry Birds". This corner is climbed easily to a two bolt anchor at the top of the cliff. I have toproped, but never led the original route, and have witnessed more than one person climb this variation after attempting to pull the roof on the left and backing off. This variation puts the route at 5.9 and is better protected than the original route, though the climbing is not quite as good.

Location Suggest change

To the left of Angry Birds, starting on Drop the Mental Ledge

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack, may want some ballnuts if attempting the original route