Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
All Locations >
International
> N America
> Canada
> Newfoundland &…
> Newfoundland
> Avalon Peninsula
> Flatrock
> Main Face
One Fine Day
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British R
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Face
|
A Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
A Few Tense Moments T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
All that and a Bag of Chips T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Angry Birds S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Arms Race T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
|
|
As Good As it Gets T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Ass Master T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Ataxia S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Blackout S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Boogie Wonderland T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Cabbages and Kings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Candy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Cepphus Grylle T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Changing Corner S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Climb and Punishment T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Creationism S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Crystal Therapy T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Dark Water T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
De Cat Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Drop the Mental T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Dynamic Duo T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
|
|
Easy Company S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Easy Way Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
|
Fifth Element T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Fine Line Between Fear and Flying S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Five Fingers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Flaccid T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Flying Cabbages S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Frank Sinatra T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
|
|
Freshly Squeezed T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Gabe T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Gabe Direct T,TR 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
|
|
Garden of Eden T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Good Country Lovin' T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Guillotine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Hakuna Matata S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Here Come the Shit Hawks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
|
|
Homer Erectus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Hysteria S,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
I Should Know Better T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
|
Impending Doom T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Iron Hand T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
It'll Be Fine T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Ivan's Corner T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
|
|
Jacob's Ladder T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Jekyll & Hyde T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C2 |
|
|
Last Chance T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Ledge Dweller S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
LSTB Program T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Maggie T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
MC Hammer T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Medicated Drama Queen S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
|
|
Mid-Atlantic T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Middle of a Choss Pile, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Nautical Noggin T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Noggin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Nubbin T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
|
|
Oat and a Boot T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
One Fine Day T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
|
|
Operation Recuperation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Out and About T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Over Easy T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
|
|
Paging Don Kiedick S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Penguins & Posers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Permanent Vacation TR 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a |
|
|
Pog Mahoe S,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Pot Head S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Pucker Up T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Redemption T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Remembrance Day T C2 |
|
|
Scarlet Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
|
|
Screaming Life S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
|
|
Sea World T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Seascape T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Seascape Direct T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
|
|
Second Skin S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
|
|
Serpentine S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
|
|
Size Matters Not S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 |
|
|
Sledgehammer S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
|
|
Something Heinous T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
|
|
Spray Down S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Vanilla Slice T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Wet Chalk S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
|
|
Whaleback T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Yellow Fever T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Jeff Holmes (FA 5.9 variation, Matt Scott & David Bruneau?) |
| Page Views: | 586 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | David Bruneau on Mar 2, 2019 |
| Admins: | David Bruneau |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Description
An alternate second pitch to Drop the Mental. Climb ledges to the left for about 25 feet, until you reach a big ledge with a hollow-sounding flake that leads to the right. Climb this hollow flake into an obvious dihedral, which is followed to the first of a few roofs. From here there are two options.
The original route (5.10a) turns the roof on the left, then continues up sloping holds on the exposed face to a shallow crack which leads to the top. This option is quite runout, as the last good pro is a few feet below the roof, and there is a considerable amount of difficult climbing after the roof before getting solid gear. Years ago, we trundled a large flake from under the roof, so at least the rock should be solid now.
A safer option is to continue up the corner which arches right, under some roofs, eventually leading to a more vertical corner directly above "Angry Birds". This corner is climbed easily to a two bolt anchor at the top of the cliff. I have toproped, but never led the original route, and have witnessed more than one person climb this variation after attempting to pull the roof on the left and backing off. This variation puts the route at 5.9 and is better protected than the original route, though the climbing is not quite as good.
The original route (5.10a) turns the roof on the left, then continues up sloping holds on the exposed face to a shallow crack which leads to the top. This option is quite runout, as the last good pro is a few feet below the roof, and there is a considerable amount of difficult climbing after the roof before getting solid gear. Years ago, we trundled a large flake from under the roof, so at least the rock should be solid now.
A safer option is to continue up the corner which arches right, under some roofs, eventually leading to a more vertical corner directly above "Angry Birds". This corner is climbed easily to a two bolt anchor at the top of the cliff. I have toproped, but never led the original route, and have witnessed more than one person climb this variation after attempting to pull the roof on the left and backing off. This variation puts the route at 5.9 and is better protected than the original route, though the climbing is not quite as good.
0 Comments