Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Horribly Heinous
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British A0 PG13
Avg: 1.5 from 2
votes
Routes in West Face
|
|
Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
|
|
Arching Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
|
|
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
|
|
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
|
|
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
|
|
Horribly Heinous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
|
|
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
|
|
Men at Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
|
|
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
|
|
Rainbow Bridge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
|
|
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
|
|
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
|
|
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
|
|
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
Order Wrong?
Sort Routes
| Type: | Sport, Aid, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.88, -104.88146 |
| FA: | Herby Hendricks, 1960s. F.F.A.: Bob D'Antonio & Mark Rolofson, February 1983 |
| Page Views: | 967 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Rolofson on Dec 30, 2018 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2025 Closure & Seasonal nesting closures - the same as for 2024
Details
The closures are the same as from 2024
Previously per PPCA: the city is installing a new water main through the park and as such the West Face of North Gateway Rock will be temporarily closed to climbers until the project is complete. The project is slated to begin its final phase in spring 2025, and we will update with a reopening date as information becomes available.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Previously per PPCA: the city is installing a new water main through the park and as such the West Face of North Gateway Rock will be temporarily closed to climbers until the project is complete. The project is slated to begin its final phase in spring 2025, and we will update with a reopening date as information becomes available.
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2025 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2021-4
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2021-4 for 2025.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods were lifted for the season.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
It seems like this climb has faded into obscurity. Bob & I both repeated this climb on numerous occasions in the 1980s. The first 20 feet is the crux, ascending a vertical face with small holds past 3 drilled pins.Then traverse right to a large pothole that provide a great rest.
Continue straight up past potholes & over a small bulge. Vertical (11c) face moves, protected by some old funky drilled pins, lead to the anchor. The reason I give this a PG-13 rating is these old pins.
It is important to note: the pin hole near the first pin is off limits & should be filled. Bob & I never used it. This hole was remaining from the aid ascent but was too large for a normal drilled angle piton. It was filled with putty long ago. Someone dug the putty out. There are some tiny holds for this move that leads to a reach right. This is hard technical move.
I always thought this was a cool pitch It ought to have its old drilled pitons replaced with bomber bolts.
The first ascent of this 1960s aid line established a 2nd pitch that has not been freed. It finishes up overhanging rock ending on the belay ledge at the end of Pete & Bob's Traverse. Have at it.
Location
It is 20 feet right of Pete & Bob's Face or 35 feet right of Pete & Bob's Crack (the normal start).
2 Comments