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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Earl Wiggins, Leonard Coyne, Ed Webster, 1977
Page Views: 1,355 total, 22/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Oct 31, 2012
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This might be the quintessential free-climbing hardman pitch at the Garden. It climbs pretty much straight up to the saddle between Tweedle Dum Shire and the Upper West Face on North Gateway Rock. The route is hard, sustained, runout, and sees few ascents, but the climbing is excellent.

Start at the large pothole just off the ground and about 50' north of The Warren Route. Go up and right from the pothole past the first pin and make a difficult mantle, followed by sustained and steep edging to get to the 2nd pin. Another difficult section gains some good edges with a few easier moves to the 3rd pin. (Caution - a fall just before clipping either the 2nd or 3rd pins has potential for decking without a careful belay, so be ready). Breathe a little, then continue up past another 5.11 move and sustained 5.10 climbing on sometimes fragile edges and flakes. Gain another good rest at the second up-and-leftward angling, lighter-colored, sedimentary layer of rock. From here, the angle eases, but the climbing will still get your attention until near the top of the pitch. Although there are additional runouts on the upper parts of the route, all the pins are pretty solid.

I consider this yet another testament to the very high standard of free climbing being displayed by our legendary forefathers in the late '70s. To me, Amazing Grace is the perfect name for this time-honored test-piece.

(FA info taken from Soft Touch III guidebook by Mark Rolofson.)

Protection

Quickdraws for 11 drilled pitons and a 3-pin anchor. Rappel with one 70m rope.

Photos

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