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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
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Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Dirk Tyler, Dave Hodges, 5/79
Page Views: 3,803 total · 19/month
Shared By: Jon Cannon on Aug 3, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

38 Opinions

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Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details


This is a very enjoyable route located just to the left of Cowboy Boot Crack. The crux is between bolts two and three, which is all smearing. See what Stealth rubber can do for you! Top out at the Metolius bolts, or continue up to the beefy Petzl eyebolts at the top of Cowboy Boot Crack.


3 pins to the bolts.


Darin Lang  
A fine route, but so many holds have broken off now that the rating is anyone's guess. It's at least 9+ now. Aug 12, 2002
Jon Cannon
Jon Cannon  
I should have mentioned that a 60m rope will JUST reach the beginning of Cowboy Boot Crack from the upper bolts. I would agree that it should be at least 9+, but what the hell do those Nebraska climbers know? Aug 13, 2002
Darin Lang  
While their knowledge of some of the more technical aspects of climbing may often be subpar, Nebraska climbers do tend exude a certain quiet, yet resolute confidence on the rock, likely due to close contact with a football team that wins more than once every ten years. Aug 13, 2002
Jon Cannon
Jon Cannon  
Bold words for someone whose team doesn't even have scoreboard.

In my estimation, it would be VERY easy to get off-route on Trigger Finger. The last time I climbed there, there was a far easier line heading off to the left, and it would of course be very tempting to hop on to Cowboy Boot Crack for some of the more difficult sections.

Does anyone know the name of the route to the left of Trigger Finger? Aug 14, 2002
David Danforth
David Danforth   California/Colorado
All this talk about Nebraksan climbers reminds me so much of a typical day at The Garden.... One time I was with my friend on Montezuma's and a group of 3 climbers (they were Texans) comes up asking us where they could find some easy leads to get started on.... I looked down at their rack and I saw Ric Geiman's guide...brand new...and they got all these fancy looking draws (probably $20 a pop) and all these funky nuts and hexes...all brand new! My guess is one of them had been to the gym once for boy scouts, and they all decided to spend a couple hundred dollars on a sport they know nothing about...why the hell do they always come here??? Oct 22, 2002
Now, I don't want to be negative here or slamming anyone, but I have to take exception to the previous comment. I too am one of these Nebraska climbers. I don't claim to be an exceptional climber, I am not a local, heck I just started climbing three years ago. But I do love being outside enjoying a unique experience with cool people. Whenever I talk to new climbers I remind myself that I started like them also. These guys are just trying to develop into climbers that will not need help. It should be our job as relatively experienced climbers to instill the proper ideals and etiquette in new climbers that we know ourselves. Hopefully they will then pass that on to people they meet. There shouldn't be a need to claim an area as "my spot", the rock and the outdoors are there for everyone to enjoy. This is not an attack at anyone, it is just my personal philosophy on what the climbing experience is all about. Oct 26, 2002
Jon Cannon
Jon Cannon  
Gee, Dave, sorry you think only the "right people" deserve to climb on "your rock", as it appears from your post. Perhaps you should look at my profile and Darin's before spouting. If you bothered, you might discover that I am a Nebraska climber, yes, but that I grew up in Colorado Springs. Does that give me an adequate enough pedigree to climb at the Garden? Darin is from Nebraska, too, but currently resides in Castle Rock. Does he get to learn the secret handshake required for climbing at the Garden?

I have to admit I'm impressed that you are able to fathom so much about a person's past, time spent on the rock, and native ability just based on a chance meeting, or a couple of throw-away posts made here at I guess divisiveness is good in our small community. Oct 27, 2002
David Danforth
David Danforth   California/Colorado
Didn't have intentions of insulting anyone, there. My apologies to anyone upset by that one. I was talking only about a set of guys who didn't know what they were doing and had chosen to climb in The Garden; I was not refering to the entire state of Nebraska. Oct 31, 2002
Look Dave, I realize that you were not coming after anyone in particular. But, and this is important, when you meet up with new or inexperience climbers, be cool to them. See what they are climbing, where they are from, stuff like that. Recommend some good climbs in the area, either at the Garden or somewhere close by. It is your responsibility to pass on the spirit and joy of climbing to both new climbers and non-climbers. This is coming from someone who always appreciates the locals taking an interest instead of being elitist. Basically keep it real and be positive. Nov 2, 2002
I have to agree with Darin, again. I just climbed this route last week, and it felt like no other 5.9 I had ever done. Right before you get into the final "hiking" section of the climb, part of the edgy dish thing broke on me. That is a mangy little hold that is not worth much and not necessary for the climb, at least as a hand. A fun route though and a very good example of a Garden friction climb. Jan 9, 2003
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
A new(er) Falcon guide has this route at .10a, which seems fair. It's a tougher lead than the .9+'s in the Garden, i.e. Credibility Gap and Crescent Corner, IMHO. Only reason why these grades matter is that they let you know what you're ready for next, anyway. Dec 17, 2003
Larry Shaw
Larry Shaw  
Give it a bouldery .9+. Spicey lead. Jun 2, 2004
Ernie Port
Boulder, Colorado
Ernie Port   Boulder, Colorado
This route is worthy and on excellent rock. Good friction and thoughtful moves. I would climb this again. Jul 11, 2004
the farside
bigwallrog   the farside
5.9 no plus needed, and it's def NOT a 10a or even a 10 for that matter go a little farther left than you think than work you way back right....

That fragile flake at the stacked arrows, be kind to it.

I can barely get up 5.10 trad (working on changing that) and this route is a breeze for me, so there is no way in hell this is a 10.

A very fun route nonetheless. Nov 6, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Awesome route, well-protected, no harder than Place in the Sun. But I second the previous comment, be gentle with the flakes up high. Aug 16, 2010
Hey guys, just climbed this one again yesterday. Always a good route, along with previous advice be careful on those flakes. I definitely felt them shift a bit, pull down not out....

I climbed it up to the second set of anchors just above the unzipped set, the nice big glue-in eyebolts. Sweet anchors except the fact that they are worn almost 50% of the way through. I don't know what can be done about it, but those things are getting sketchy. Don't add to it by toproping through them. Sep 2, 2010
Just led this again. It felt significantly harder than last year. I am fairly certain a right-hand hold a few feet under the "scissor pin" is missing. I distinctly remember a good, small crimp over there that was pretty important. It is not there anymore. It felt much a harder this year than last! Sep 28, 2014
-- Chris --
-- Chris --  
Fun and thougtful movement! Felt 5.9, but I TR'd it. Nov 3, 2014
Climbed this route "again" today. Yeah - February - can you believe it? Warm and sunny. Anyway, this route is a fun mix of climbing, from small fingers, sketchy feet, a really sweet undercling near the top, and decent "rests" on the way up. It ain't 5.8, and it ain't 5.10 -- so hmmmmm, yeah I agree wholeheartedly, it's a solid 5.9. Stay safe!!! Feb 20, 2016
Sadly, it appears that someone took a winger on the "scissor" pins. The top one is missing, and the bottom is pulled out a bit and very bent and wiggly. The ring below is questionable to hold a fall from the crux moves above the scissors.

What is the possibility of replacing the bad pin with a to make this safe again? Oct 31, 2016

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