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Routes in West Face
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Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R |
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Arching Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13 |
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Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Horribly Heinous S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
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Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Men at Work T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rainbow Bridge T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 260 ft (79 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Richard Cole and friends, '60s. |
| Page Views: | 2,769 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Bosier Parsons on Oct 9, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures
Details
Per Bret Tennis:
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
As of 3/29/23: the seasonal raptor closures are the same as in 2022 and recent years.
We have expanded the climbing closure for North Gateway Rock inside the Garden of the Gods. We expect our prairie falcons to fledge soon. Closures will be lifted once the raptors are safely flying and providing for themselves (or they leave the area).
Thank you,
Bret Tennis
Parks Operations Administrator
Garden of the Gods
Office: 719-219-0108
Bret.tennis@coloradosprings.gov
Old info:
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108) on 11/10/19:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is now open for rock climbing. The climbing closures on Sleeping Giant and the West Side of Gray Rock remain closed.
From Larry, Colo Spgs City Staff (719-219-0108):
New seasonal climbing closure as of June 5, 2019:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023
Details
Per Bret Tennis, GOG Park Operations administrator: the seasonal closures are the same as in 2023 for 2024.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
From the scooped ledge above Amazing Grace, the route climbs out left, around the corner onto a large slab that forms the upper and southern section of the West Face of North Gateway Rock.
P1) Step up and left around the corner, being careful of loose rock and clip a decent fixed pin. Above this you can place a high #0.75 Camalot, but then step back down and left for an airy 5.7 traverse move to a good ledge with another piton. From here, continue traversing up and left along a crack/seam feature with some bushes in it. You can place a #0.4 Camalot and higher up a #1 Camalot along this crack (you may even want to sling a bush, although it probably wouldn't hold). Continue above the bushes just left of the crack up perfect potholes to the anchor which consists of 1 drilled piton and an old Leeper-Z piton that sticks half way out. (5.7 R, 130 feet)
P2) Climb above the anchor to the top of a pillar and clip an OK piton. Continue up on easy but loose terrain past 2 worthless pitons, to a fourth piton which seems a little more solid, but still seems questionable. From here, you can traverse right to the ridge crest, where you can place a yellow C3 Camalot (1/2"). Then climb the ridge, with another good placement for the #0.4 Camalot to a new 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall. You can also climb straight up past the last piton, but a fall here could be tragic. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)
The X rating in the description is due to the long runouts on the second pitch, with quite worthless protection. The climbing is easy but very loose and requires a cool head. If you fall off this pitch, it's possible that you could rip all the protection (although I hope the first piton would hold). Falling directly onto the anchor in this scenario could possibly generate enough force to rip the anchor (although I personally think it would hold, but the Leeper-Z makes me wonder). Similarly, don't fall prior to clipping the first piton on the first pitch. The first pitch is also scary and runout, but doesn't feel quite as sketchy, and at least the anchor at the start of the climb seems bomber. Either way, long whippers are a distinct possibility on this climb, and will make you wonder if your protection would hold. But for those that are ready and willing to take on this type of Garden adventure, the climbing and the position is amazing.
P1) Step up and left around the corner, being careful of loose rock and clip a decent fixed pin. Above this you can place a high #0.75 Camalot, but then step back down and left for an airy 5.7 traverse move to a good ledge with another piton. From here, continue traversing up and left along a crack/seam feature with some bushes in it. You can place a #0.4 Camalot and higher up a #1 Camalot along this crack (you may even want to sling a bush, although it probably wouldn't hold). Continue above the bushes just left of the crack up perfect potholes to the anchor which consists of 1 drilled piton and an old Leeper-Z piton that sticks half way out. (5.7 R, 130 feet)
P2) Climb above the anchor to the top of a pillar and clip an OK piton. Continue up on easy but loose terrain past 2 worthless pitons, to a fourth piton which seems a little more solid, but still seems questionable. From here, you can traverse right to the ridge crest, where you can place a yellow C3 Camalot (1/2"). Then climb the ridge, with another good placement for the #0.4 Camalot to a new 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall. You can also climb straight up past the last piton, but a fall here could be tragic. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)
The X rating in the description is due to the long runouts on the second pitch, with quite worthless protection. The climbing is easy but very loose and requires a cool head. If you fall off this pitch, it's possible that you could rip all the protection (although I hope the first piton would hold). Falling directly onto the anchor in this scenario could possibly generate enough force to rip the anchor (although I personally think it would hold, but the Leeper-Z makes me wonder). Similarly, don't fall prior to clipping the first piton on the first pitch. The first pitch is also scary and runout, but doesn't feel quite as sketchy, and at least the anchor at the start of the climb seems bomber. Either way, long whippers are a distinct possibility on this climb, and will make you wonder if your protection would hold. But for those that are ready and willing to take on this type of Garden adventure, the climbing and the position is amazing.
Location
This route begins from the large scooped out ledge in the West Face of North Gateway Rock, which is formed by the Tweedle Dum Spire on the south and the main formation of North Gateway Rock to the north. The scoop is also at the top of Amazing Grace (the hard face climb just left of The Warren Route).
Approach by scrambling up the Tourist Gully almost to its top. Look for the easiest access to gain the ridge of the rock that is to the west (climber's left). There is an obvious notch to look for which is higher than the notch formed by the base of the the Tweedle Dum Spire. Once you've accessed the ridge you have two options. The original route down-climbs the ridge at 5.4 with limited pro to the saddle below the Tweedle Dum Spire. From here, you can rappel 60' or so to the large scooped ledge above Amazing Grace (chain anchors - from here you can rappel 150' to the ground). Alternatively, you may avoid down-climbing the ridge by carefully accessing a 2-pin anchor just below the notch. This is an exposed maneuver, but leaves a direct 100' rappel down to a two-pin anchor above and to the left of the chain anchors for Amazing Grace. This is the start of the climb. (You can also approach by climbing Amazing Grace or the first pitch of Falling From Grace).
This route is somewhat tricky in trying to put it in a rational subarea for North Gateway Rock. It lies on the West face, but the easiest approach is from the Tourist Gully. Still, it can be approached via The Zipper, The Warren Route, and Amazing Grace. So, it's a challenge for the hierarchical organization on this website.
Approach by scrambling up the Tourist Gully almost to its top. Look for the easiest access to gain the ridge of the rock that is to the west (climber's left). There is an obvious notch to look for which is higher than the notch formed by the base of the the Tweedle Dum Spire. Once you've accessed the ridge you have two options. The original route down-climbs the ridge at 5.4 with limited pro to the saddle below the Tweedle Dum Spire. From here, you can rappel 60' or so to the large scooped ledge above Amazing Grace (chain anchors - from here you can rappel 150' to the ground). Alternatively, you may avoid down-climbing the ridge by carefully accessing a 2-pin anchor just below the notch. This is an exposed maneuver, but leaves a direct 100' rappel down to a two-pin anchor above and to the left of the chain anchors for Amazing Grace. This is the start of the climb. (You can also approach by climbing Amazing Grace or the first pitch of Falling From Grace).
This route is somewhat tricky in trying to put it in a rational subarea for North Gateway Rock. It lies on the West face, but the easiest approach is from the Tourist Gully. Still, it can be approached via The Zipper, The Warren Route, and Amazing Grace. So, it's a challenge for the hierarchical organization on this website.
Protection
P1) 2 or 3 pins, #0.4 - #1 Camalots. 2 pin anchor.
P2) 4 pins, yellow C3 Camalot, #0.4 Camalot. 2 new bolts anchor.
Tag the summit, then descend by walking north on a large ledge on the West face, then going back through a notch to the east, with a short down-climb to gain a large ledge on the East face. Walk back south to access the top of the Tourist Gully and down-climb from there.
P2) 4 pins, yellow C3 Camalot, #0.4 Camalot. 2 new bolts anchor.
Tag the summit, then descend by walking north on a large ledge on the West face, then going back through a notch to the east, with a short down-climb to gain a large ledge on the East face. Walk back south to access the top of the Tourist Gully and down-climb from there.
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