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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 260 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Richard Cole and friends, '60s.
Page Views: 1,578 total, 14/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Oct 9, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

From the scooped ledge above Amazing Grace, the route climbs out left, around the corner onto a large slab that forms the upper and southern section of the West Face of North Gateway Rock.

P1) Step up and left around the corner, being careful of loose rock and clip a decent fixed pin. Above this you can place a high #0.75 Camalot, but then step back down and left for an airy 5.7 traverse move to a good ledge with another piton. From here, continue traversing up and left along a crack/seam feature with some bushes in it. You can place a #0.4 Camalot and higher up a #1 Camalot along this crack (you may even want to sling a bush, although it probably wouldn't hold). Continue above the bushes just left of the crack up perfect potholes to the anchor which consists of 1 drilled piton and an old Leeper-Z piton that sticks half way out. (5.7 R, 130 feet)

P2) Climb above the anchor to the top of a pillar and clip an OK piton. Continue up on easy but loose terrain past 2 worthless pitons, to a fourth piton which seems a little more solid, but still seems questionable. From here, you can traverse right to the ridge crest, where you can place a yellow C3 Camalot (1/2"). Then climb the ridge, with another good placement for the #0.4 Camalot to a new 2-bolt anchor at the top of the wall. You can also climb straight up past the last piton, but a fall here could be tragic. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)

The X rating in the description is due to the long runouts on the second pitch, with quite worthless protection. The climbing is easy but very loose and requires a cool head. If you fall off this pitch, it's possible that you could rip all the protection (although I hope the first piton would hold). Falling directly onto the anchor in this scenario could possibly generate enough force to rip the anchor (although I personally think it would hold, but the Leeper-Z makes me wonder). Similarly, don't fall prior to clipping the first piton on the first pitch. The first pitch is also scary and runout, but doesn't feel quite as sketchy, and at least the anchor at the start of the climb seems bomber. Either way, long whippers are a distinct possibility on this climb, and will make you wonder if your protection would hold. But for those that are ready and willing to take on this type of Garden adventure, the climbing and the position is amazing.

Location

This route begins from the large scooped out ledge in the West Face of North Gateway Rock, which is formed by the Tweedle Dum Spire on the south and the main formation of North Gateway Rock to the north. The scoop is also at the top of Amazing Grace (the hard face climb just left of The Warren Route).

Approach by scrambling up the Tourist Gully almost to its top. Look for the easiest access to gain the ridge of the rock that is to the west (climber's left). There is an obvious notch to look for which is higher than the notch formed by the base of the the Tweedle Dum Spire. Once you've accessed the ridge you have two options. The original route down-climbs the ridge at 5.4 with limited pro to the saddle below the Tweedle Dum Spire. From here, you can rappel 60' or so to the large scooped ledge above Amazing Grace (chain anchors - from here you can rappel 150' to the ground). Alternatively, you may avoid down-climbing the ridge by carefully accessing a 2-pin anchor just below the notch. This is an exposed maneuver, but leaves a direct 100' rappel down to a two-pin anchor above and to the left of the chain anchors for Amazing Grace. This is the start of the climb. (You can also approach by climbing Amazing Grace or the first pitch of Falling From Grace).

This route is somewhat tricky in trying to put it in a rational subarea for North Gateway Rock. It lies on the West face, but the easiest approach is from the Tourist Gully. Still, it can be approached via The Zipper, The Warren Route, and Amazing Grace. So, it's a challenge for the hierarchical organization on this website.

Protection

P1) 2 or 3 pins, #0.4 - #1 Camalots. 2 pin anchor.
P2) 4 pins, yellow C3 Camalot, #0.4 Camalot. 2 new bolts anchor.

Tag the summit, then descend by walking north on a large ledge on the West face, then going back through a notch to the east, with a short down-climb to gain a large ledge on the East face. Walk back south to access the top of the Tourist Gully and down-climb from there.
Bosier Parsons
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bosier Parsons   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Not yet. It's something the PPCA Fixed Hardware Committee has discussed, but because of the process involved and our prioritization, it may take a bit longer, but keep checking, because we have begun some recent restoration here at the Garden. If you're on Facebook, like our page as that's also a good way to keep informed. Thanks - Bo Nov 4, 2016
Has modern hardware been added to this route? Oct 16, 2016
This used to be a great climb and was very popular at one time. I did it at least 25 times. Now, however, it is not recommended due to the very bad fixed pitons. As noted in the description above, most of those on pitch 2 would not hold a fall. Many of them have been almost eroded out. Because of this I am planning to reestablish the route with modern hardware.... Oct 20, 2008