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Routes in West Face

Amazing Grace S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Borgoff's Blunder T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cowboy Boot Crack T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fastest Drill S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grapefruit Dance S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Indecent Exposure T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Men at Work T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over the Rainbow T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pillar Climb T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rainbow Bridge T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trigger Finger S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unzipped S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Warren - Johnson S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Zipper, The T,S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Peter Croff & Bob Stauch, '60s. FFA of P1 Steve Cheyney, '60s. FFA of P2 Bill Mummery & Mike Grey, '68. FFA of continuous climb Kurt Rasmussen, '73.
Page Views: 1,782 total, 13/month
Shared By: Bosier Parsons on Nov 5, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Description

This is a classic old Garden route. Most people just climb the first pitch. Some loose rock will be encountered, but the moves and position are worthy. (Beware that the bottom right half of the pillar fell off many years ago after a large, 2-day rain storm. A similar event such as this could cause the collapse of the rest of the pillar.)

P1. Traverse left into the crack that forms the left side of the large pillar. Climb straight up past pitons and a couple steep moves to a nice traverse move right to the anchor atop the pillar. (5.9, 85 feet)

P2. Traverse right, then up for a few moves, then right again past many pins to a ledge with a tree. (5.11, 100 feet) -- A low variation to this traverse exists as well. FA by Peter Gallagher & Mack Johnson, '79. (5.10)

P3. Climb up through a bulge above the tree, passing a few pins, to gain the upper slab of North Gateway Rock. Continue to a belay near the top of a pillar-type feature. (5.9, 100 feet)

P4. Climb the slab above past a few pins to the top of the formation. This is the last pitch of Indecent Exposure. (5.6 R/X, 130 feet)

Descend from the summit by walking north along a huge ledge, then going east through a notch and down-climbing 10 feet on chopped steps, in order to access a big ledge on the east side of the formation. From there, walk south to access the Tourist Gully for the quickest and safest descent. Information taken from Mark Rolofson's Soft Touch 3 guide.

Location

The route is located on the West face of North Gateway Rock, at the height of the path along the base of the cliff, and below a roof and right facing corner that were formed by the large rockfall that I mentioned in the description. This is right of Men at Work, and left of Horribly Heinous.

Protection

Quickdraws and a few cams from 1" to 5" will still leave you with some runouts on the first pitch but on easier climbing. The second pitch requires 11 or 12 quickdraws.

I added new webbing to the first pitch anchor yesterday, equalizing 2 pitons and one newer eyebolt, and thus eliminating the old steel cable American triangle. (The 2 eyebolts are not great, and the one that I did not include in the new webbing anchor is loose.)

Photos

VERY sandy right now. Just did the first pitch with a buddy today. He led it. I was on top rope and fell trying to get up the slightly overhanging crack (or at least it felt slightly overhanging to me. It was after the second piton I believe. Anyway, when I fell, my feet hit a ledge or something pretty hard due to rope stretch and a whole lot of rock came crashing down. I don't think it changed the climb too much, but I neglected to check thoroughly. Sorry if I unintentionally broke off a critical hold.

Also, I'm not sure if this is due to holds breaking off, but I would say that the first pitch is MUCH harder than a 5.9. I would not by any standards consider myself to be a great climber, but I've led quite a few 5.10s (sport) and found that the one part where I fell was more difficult than anything I have ever done before. Maybe I'm just terrible at this KIND of climb, but I think the first pitch should be rated harder than 5.9...unless, perhaps, you are pretty tall. Oct 13, 2013
Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Did this climb for the first time yesterday. It's fun, but crazily dirty and sandy. Also, we broke off numerous flakes at the start on the face, just to the right of the first bolt. Be careful, it's all still super loose. Another downside was toproping this route...the grooves on the shelf created by the rope sliding back in forth are very deep and like to catch your rope. I actually got stuck about halfway up because my belayer couldn't pull my slack - no fun. TIP: build an anchor that minimizes the rope dragging on the shelf, ideally hanging over it. Still a fun route though, recommended. Nov 10, 2012
iceman777
Colorado Springs
iceman777   Colorado Springs
Hats off to you, mountainmicah83.

Did this route a couple years ago w/ Mr. Dunn and at pitch two watched the footholds crumble to dust as he passed each one, I was seriously thinking I'd like to have a couple daisies to clip pin to pin and just get that crap over with.

Post up when you finish p-2. I'd really like to see how it pans out.

cheers Sep 4, 2012
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
Went back to work this one with more daylight. P1 is so clean, and then as soon as you start P2 you are in for the classic dirty p2 of The Garden. We bailed after 7 or 8 pitons but want to give it another shot.

P1 I used a few cams to supplement the sparse pitons that would provide an R rating without. Jan 24, 2011
mountainmicah83
Colorado Springs
mountainmicah83   Colorado Springs
As of 1/18/2011, the first pitch was very clean and not too sandy for Garden standards. Watch out for pigeons darting out of the flaring crack a ways below the anchors of p1. Jan 19, 2011
Very, very, very sandy right now from all the sand and very little traffic this summer...still one of the Garden classics. Sep 25, 2008