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Areas in North Gateway Rock

East Face 4 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Hidden Valley 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
North Face / North End 3 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 5
Southwest Face / Finger Face 2 / 10 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
West Face 9 / 11 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 15
Elevation: 6,035 ft
GPS: 38.88, -104.881 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 55,476 total, 253/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

While there are a few scary aid lines up the East Face, most of the route development has been on the West and North Faces. The North Face has some difficult free lines including Anaconda (5.11), a Kor aid line freed, I believe, by Wiggins and Dunn. The West Face is divided by the obvious Tourist Gully (5.0). To the North of the Tourist Gully are many hard, vertical, and scary routes from one to five pitches, many put up by Webster, Coyne, Dunn, Wiggins, D'Antonio and others in the '70s and '80s (no offense intended to other first ascenders active during this time period). South of the Tourist Gully is a less-than vertical slab called the Finger Face for the namesake finger-shaped flake. Many classic soft sandstone moderates, generally well protected, are found in this area, including Finger Ramp (5.7), Lower and Upper Finger Traverse (5.8), and Son of Tidrick's (5.9). Protection on these climbs is generally composed of old, but solid drilled angles. Pull down, not out!
2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details
2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details

Getting There

This is the largest formation in the Garden, it is easily visible on the right as you drive in from the East.

36 Total Climbs

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Location: North Gateway Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Gateway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Cowboy Boot Crack
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Ramp
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lower Finger Traverse
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Snuggles to Fall Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fastest Drill
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trigger Finger
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Lower Finger Direct
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
No Ethics Required
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rainbow Bridge
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Pete & Bob's
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Men at Work
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Anaconda
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
The Zipper
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grapefruit Dance
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C1
Triple Exposure
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cowboy Boot Crack W Face 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Finger Ramp Southwest Face / Finger Face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Lower Finger Traverse Southwest Face / Finger Face 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Snuggles to Fall Crack E Face 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Fastest Drill W Face 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Trigger Finger W Face 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Lower Finger Direct Southwest Face / Finger Face 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X TR
No Ethics Required Southwest Face / Finger Face 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rainbow Bridge W Face 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Pete & Bob's W Face 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Men at Work W Face 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Anaconda N Face / N End 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Zipper W Face 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Grapefruit Dance W Face 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Triple Exposure N Face / N End 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C1 Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Gateway Rock »

Weather Averages

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Patrick Manitou
Atlanta, GAAAAA
Patrick Manitou   Atlanta, GAAAAA
Anybody know the route that starts about twenty feet to the left of Amazing Grace? It starts in a cave-thing and then traverses left for quite a while. It's got old-ish looking drilled pins, and is well-protected except the first pin is a good twenty feet off the deck. I've got four different guides and it's not in any of them. Seems pretty cool, and I'd never noticed it before, so maybe it's new? Dec 22, 2008
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. Jun 17, 2008
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
We were told not to climb on the East side of N. Gateway rock yesterday, due to falcon closures. However, I can't find any closures posted on the GOG website nor were there any posted on the wooden fence or elsewhere. Anyone know the scoop? Jun 13, 2008
Matt DeCoste
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt DeCoste   Colorado Springs, CO
Yesterday me and two buddies went to the top of Tourist Gully on North Gateway and kept heading north on top and popped out on top of North Gateway for a few pics and the view. Then we kept moving north in the little channel on top of North Gateway and it drops down into a hidden valley area that sort of overlooks the main parking lot. I have done this once before but can't seem to remember the name or the grade of the 1 pitch rappel-in/climb out route to access it.

I seem to remember someone calling it the "hidden valley" or "hidden garden" or something like that. Anyone dropped in there or know what I am talking about? I would put the climb out route at probably 5.8+. The fire department does this route and then rappel off the east side of North Gateway when they practice for rescue. Apr 23, 2007
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Hey Springs climbers.

I heard rumors that Pete and Bob's fell apart? Has anyone climbed it recently? I just don't see what part would have collapsed, and I haven't done that route in five years. Jun 23, 2004
Does anyone know the name of the route which goes up from the chains at the top of Finger Ramp to the chains at the top of Son of Tedrick's? It follows the same line as Finger Ramp past three bolts and then traverses about fifteen feet to the Tedrick's anchor. Dec 2, 2003
Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I climbed a nice 5.8 crack several years ago on the east face of North Gateway Rock. This crack is located just right of the metal sign that is bolted on the rock. The anchor consists of two old bolts and rotten webbing. The crux of the route consisted of answering the infamous question, "how did you get the rope get up there?". Yes, you will be video taped by tourists while climbing here. Apr 18, 2002

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