Access Issue: 2017 Seasonal Closures - Partial Closure Lifting Details
Access Issue: 2015 Seasonal falcon nesting closures - reduced Details

Description

While there are a few scary aid lines up the East Face, most of the route development has been on the West and North Faces. The North Face has some difficult free lines including Anaconda (5.11), a Kor aid line freed, I believe, by Wiggins and Dunn. The West Face is divided by the obvious Tourist Gully (5.0). To the North of the Tourist Gully are many hard, vertical, and scary routes from one to five pitches, many put up by Webster, Coyne, Dunn, Wiggins, D'Antonio and others in the '70s and '80s (no offense intended to other first ascenders active during this time period). South of the Tourist Gully is a less-than vertical slab called the Finger Face for the namesake finger-shaped flake. Many classic soft sandstone moderates, generally well protected, are found in this area, including Finger Ramp (5.7), Lower and Upper Finger Traverse (5.8), and Son of Tidrick's (5.9). Protection on these climbs is generally composed of old, but solid drilled angles. Pull down, not out!

Getting There

This is the largest formation in the Garden, it is easily visible on the right as you drive in from the East.

White Chalk is not allowed!

The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that white chalk (calcium carbonate) is prohibited in the park due to visual impact. While any chalk use is discourage, chalk substitute that does not discolor the rock may be used. Eco balls are sold at the Visitor Center.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

37 Total Climbs

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Location: North Gateway Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Gateway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 129
Cowboy Boot Crack
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 109
Finger Ramp
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 36
Snuggles to Fall Crack
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 38
Trigger Finger
Sport, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
 4
Chatters
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 7
Borgoff's Blunder
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 27
Lower Finger Direct
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 3
No Ethics Required
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 30
Rainbow Bridge
Trad, Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Pete & Bob's
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 13
Men at Work
Trad, Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 50
Anaconda
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
 5
The Zipper
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 24
Grapefruit Dance
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2-
 12
Triple Exposure
Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cowboy Boot Crack W Face
 129
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Finger Ramp Southwest Face / Fing…
 109
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Snuggles to Fall Crack E Face
 36
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Trigger Finger W Face
 38
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Chatters Southwest Face / Fing…
 4
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Sport
Borgoff's Blunder W Face
 7
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Lower Finger Direct Southwest Face / Fing…
 27
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X TR
No Ethics Required Southwest Face / Fing…
 3
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rainbow Bridge W Face
 30
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Pete & Bob's W Face
 10
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Men at Work W Face
 13
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad, Sport
Anaconda N Face / N End
 50
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport 2 pitches
The Zipper W Face
 5
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Grapefruit Dance W Face
 24
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Triple Exposure N Face / N End
 12
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2- Trad, Sport, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Gateway Rock »

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Shane Zentner
Colorado
Shane Zentner   Colorado
I climbed a nice 5.8 crack several years ago on the east face of North Gateway Rock. This crack is located just right of the metal sign that is bolted on the rock. The anchor consists of two old bolts and rotten webbing. The crux of the route consisted of answering the infamous question, "how did you get the rope get up there?". Yes, you will be video taped by tourists while climbing here. Apr 18, 2002
Does anyone know the name of the route which goes up from the chains at the top of Finger Ramp to the chains at the top of Son of Tedrick's? It follows the same line as Finger Ramp past three bolts and then traverses about fifteen feet to the Tedrick's anchor. Dec 2, 2003
Matt Juth
Evergreen
Matt Juth   Evergreen
Hey Springs climbers.

I heard rumors that Pete and Bob's fell apart? Has anyone climbed it recently? I just don't see what part would have collapsed, and I haven't done that route in five years. Jun 23, 2004
Matt DeCoste
Colorado Springs, CO
Matt DeCoste   Colorado Springs, CO
Yesterday me and two buddies went to the top of Tourist Gully on North Gateway and kept heading north on top and popped out on top of North Gateway for a few pics and the view. Then we kept moving north in the little channel on top of North Gateway and it drops down into a hidden valley area that sort of overlooks the main parking lot. I have done this once before but can't seem to remember the name or the grade of the 1 pitch rappel-in/climb out route to access it.

I seem to remember someone calling it the "hidden valley" or "hidden garden" or something like that. Anyone dropped in there or know what I am talking about? I would put the climb out route at probably 5.8+. The fire department does this route and then rappel off the east side of North Gateway when they practice for rescue. Apr 23, 2007
Tim Stich
Colorado Springs, Colorado
Tim Stich   Colorado Springs, Colorado
We were told not to climb on the East side of N. Gateway rock yesterday, due to falcon closures. However, I can't find any closures posted on the GOG website nor were there any posted on the wooden fence or elsewhere. Anyone know the scoop? Jun 13, 2008
The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch. Jun 17, 2008
Patrick Manitou
Atlanta, GAAAAA
Patrick Manitou   Atlanta, GAAAAA
Anybody know the route that starts about twenty feet to the left of Amazing Grace? It starts in a cave-thing and then traverses left for quite a while. It's got old-ish looking drilled pins, and is well-protected except the first pin is a good twenty feet off the deck. I've got four different guides and it's not in any of them. Seems pretty cool, and I'd never noticed it before, so maybe it's new? Dec 22, 2008