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Elevation: 6,489 ft 1,978 m
GPS: 38.87997, -104.88109
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 135,674 total · 455/month
Shared By: Darin Lang on Nov 29, 1999
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Warning Access Issue: 2024 Seasonal Closures - these are the same as 2023 DetailsDrop down
Warning Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal nesting closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

While there are a few scary aid lines up the East Face, most of the route development has been on the West and North Faces. The North Face has some difficult free lines including Anaconda (5.11), a Kor aid line freed, I believe, by Wiggins and Dunn. The West Face is divided by the obvious Tourist Gully (5.0). To the North of the Tourist Gully are many hard, vertical, and scary routes from one to five pitches, many put up by Webster, Coyne, Dunn, Wiggins, D'Antonio and others in the '70s and '80s (no offense intended to other first ascenders active during this time period). South of the Tourist Gully is a less-than vertical slab called the Finger Face for the namesake finger-shaped flake. Many classic soft sandstone moderates, generally well protected, are found in this area, including Finger Ramp (5.7), Lower and Upper Finger Traverse (5.8), and Son of Tidrick's (5.9). Protection on these climbs is generally composed of old, but solid drilled angles. Pull down, not out!

Getting There Suggest change

This is the largest formation in the Garden, it is easily visible on the right as you drive in from the East.

All chalk and chalk substitute are not allowed!

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The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that all chalk (calcium carbonate) and chalk substitutes are prohibited in the park due to visual impact starting in 2021.

When placing closure signange/notifications, our park rangers noted chalk stains on several routes in the closure area (Anaconda and Grapefruit Dance), as well as the Blowouts bouldering area (which were cleaned last year, meaning all the chalk here is new). We are again hoping that the community can come together and address this issue before it requires any action on our part. Access may come into play! We'd also like to thank the PPCA for their efforts to remove chalk stains in these areas last year and hope that local climbers might consider helping them remove chalk stains from the rock this season- check their website for more info on upcoming events- pikespeakclimbersalliance.o….

Prior Year Climbing Restrictions/Closures

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Prior year climbing closures from 2018:

The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.

Update as of 8/4/15: as of this week, SOME closures have been lifted in Garden of the Gods. Grey Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is now entirely open. The Summit Ridge, East Ledges, and West face (excluding the West face of Tower of Babel) of North Gateway is also open.

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/110844873

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/110848634

The East Face of North Gateway is closed to climbers every year from around Feb. 1 until early August, depending on when the birds fledge. It's not posted out there, but since the closure has been in effect for 20+ years it is incumbent on climbers to know about closures by stopping in at the visitor center and asking. The falcons always nest in a big pothole above the traverse ledge and below the Kissing Camels arch.

https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/110249047

2015 photo.

Rattlesnakes

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Per Cody Cook: watch for rattlers.

41 Total Climbs

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Location: North Gateway Rock Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at North Gateway Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 162
Cowboy Boot Crack
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 137
Finger Ramp
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 50
Snuggles to Fall Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Tidrick's
Trad, Sport 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 48
Trigger Finger
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 13
Borgoff's Blunder
Trad, Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
 31
Lower Finger Direct
TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
No Ethics Required
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 39
Rainbow Bridge
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 13
Pete & Bob's
Trad 4 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 15
Men at Work
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 56
Anaconda
Trad 2 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13
 6
The Zipper
Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
Grapefruit Dance
Sport
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2-
 13
Triple Exposure
Trad, Aid 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cowboy Boot Crack W Face
 162
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Finger Ramp Southwest Face / Fing…
 137
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Snuggles to Fall Crack E Face
 50
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Tidrick's Southwest Face / Fing…
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, Sport 3 pitches
Trigger Finger W Face
 48
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport, TR
Borgoff's Blunder W Face
 13
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, Sport
Lower Finger Direct Southwest Face / Fing…
 31
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X TR
No Ethics Required Southwest Face / Fing…
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Rainbow Bridge W Face
 39
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Pete & Bob's W Face
 13
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 4 pitches
Men at Work W Face
 15
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Anaconda N Face / N End
 56
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
The Zipper W Face
 6
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a A0 PG13 Trad, Sport, Aid 3 pitches
Grapefruit Dance W Face
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Triple Exposure N Face / N End
 13
5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b C2- Trad, Aid 4 pitches
More Classic Climbs in North Gateway Rock »

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